SNOWDON AND NORTH WALES
2nd June 1973 to 8th June 1973
One of the hottest weeks of the year and a unique trip in many ways - the first time we had taken the bikes on the train - our first really close view of the mountains - our first ascent of a mountain and the sight of a Red Kite on the way to Devil's Bridge. One of our most enjoyable holidays so far, a holiday which introduced us to the mountains.
Saturday 2nd June
We started the day by taking the bikes on the train for the first time, arriving in Crewe quite early. We headed along the main road to Nantwich and then along the minor roads to quickly reach Wrexham. The day was overcast and drizzling and we stopped in a bus shelter outside Wrexham for some food and then pressed on. Once the countryside became hilly we were able to leave the main road and enjoy an exciting ride through country lanes which must have seen little traffic judging by the grass growing down the centre. As we struggled up the hills, water rushed down in little streams but about midday it stopped and we the felt the exhilaration of being high up and alone in the countryside.
We wanted to press on and make as much progress towards the mountains as possible so rejoined the A5 which was surprisingly very free of traffic. Unlike the cars, we were able to hear waterfalls gurgling and splashing behind the walls beside the roads and could stop occasionally to investigate. The riding was enjoyable and quite fast as although there were occasionally steep hills there were also long level stretches. As the light began to fade in the late afternoon we could see the first glimpses of the mountains ahead. It had been a long day and we pulled into a pleasant farm site off the main road. We had today cycled 70 miles and tomorrow we would be among the mountains.
Day - 70 miles Trip - 70 miles
Sunday 3rd June
After an early start we stopped just before Betws-y-Coed for some tea in a small cafe alongside the main road and, thus fortified, then went on our way along the A5 through forests around Betws-y-Coed and into Capel Curig where we stopped after a short while. The countryside now opened out and we came upon the mountain Tryfan standing proudly to the left of the road - a huge black cliff with climbers making their way up its face. We stood and watched. We passed Tryfan and then were suddenly amongst the mountains - huge overpowering mountains on both sides stretching up from the road. Magnificent!
We halted alongside Llyn Ogwen and just looked up at the paths disappearing to the heights, wondering just where those paths might lead. A passing walker was in no doubt, seeing us looking he urged us to "get on up there " - advice which in later years was to prove very satisfying. But there was no chance of going up into the hills that day, we had other plans and places to go and pedalled on a half mile to turn a corner to the most tremendous view. For three miles ahead the road went down and down with a steep drop on the left to a wide river running amongst the bright green fields. This was superb. One of the finest scenes we had witnessed and it seemed a shame to travel fast although the road was steep and the temptation there. This was the Nant Ffrancon pass, a scene that will linger long in the memory. After that the rest of the day seemed more than ordinary and towards the evening, riding across Anglesey, quite boring.
At the bottom of the Nant Ffrancon pass we went through the quarries by Bethesda and looked with disbelief at the contrast of the huge spoil heaps towering above the road with the magnificent mountains we had just passed between them. We were still fairly high and the descent to sea level to arrive at the Menai Bridge was very steep. The bridge itself was about the most interesting part of Anglesey which seemed long and flat. A brief curiosity stop at the station of Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch to buy a souvenir platform ticket and an ice cream and we headed to the far end of the island. We were really in too much of a hurry to get back to the mountains and so tried to rush over Anglesey with the result that it was the most uninteresting part of the holiday.
One interesting incident was when the mileometer ceased to function miles from anywhere and on Sunday. There was surely no hope of getting another until we returned to the mainland and yet within a few hundred yards there was a garage - with a window full of cycle spares! It was open despite the fact that the owner had the flu and we were able to buy and fit a new mileometer. The day was now almost over and, feeling quite tired and dejected by the flatness of Anglesey, we camped just over the bridge on Holy Island vowing to return to the mountains as quickly as we could the following day. We seemed to have crammed so much in today, yet the mileometer showed only 54 miles.
Day - 54 miles Trip - 124 miles
Monday 4th June
We had intended to visit South Stack on Holy Island to see the cliffs and the sea, but in the far distance there lay the mountains and we longed to return. We gave the cliffs and the sea a miss and started the long pedal back to the mainland. Not wishing to retrace our route we kept off the main road but it was only slightly more interesting. It seemed a long while before we were able to cross the Menai Bridge once more as we headed for Caernarfon but we eventually made it.
Along the main road now and after stopping to fix a pedal we arrived in Caernarfon and went down to the quayside behind the castle to sit by the harbour, eat our sandwiches, and feed the seagulls. Despite the fact that the roads were virtually empty, the town and castle were very crowded. When our lunch had been finished we followed the main road south as far as Penygroes and then turned along the B4418 where the going was extremely heavy as it was a hot day and the road had been freshly tarred.
In fact it had by now turned out to be an extremely hot week with temperatures well into the 80's - or so it seemed! The wind in our faces kept us cool, however, and we headed towards Snowdon along the superb B road which grew steeper and steeper, reaching a peak at 780 feet above sea level before dropping steeply to Rhyd-Ddu and turning left to Llyn Cwellyn. For the first time, just before the peak of this road, we came upon sheep wandering in the middle of the highway and one of the things we were to remember most about Wales was the bleating of the sheep and the running of water. Now that we had joined the A4085, Snowdon towered away to the right although its summit was hidden and Llyn Cwellyn was to the left with the Forestry Commission's conifers marching up the hillside behind. An interesting stop along this road was at Betws Garmon where, just off the road, was a rock and water garden with bridges and flowers and water cascading through in a natural river. It appeared to be a private garden although the public were invited to enter.
On now to turn off across a high plateau to head towards Llanberis, a long ride which ended in a 1 in 4 drop down an S bend to the valley - a worrying moment coming towards the end of a long day. We turned up to Brynrefail to camp on a caravan site with a separate field with tents which was some way above the valley and overlooked Snowdon. This was a perfect spot to camp and we could sit and pick out the Snowdon Mountain Railway which tomorrow we would follow to the top of Snowdon. A total of 58 miles today and we slept with thoughts of a rest from cycling and a good walk instead.
Day - 58 miles Trip - 182 miles
Tuesday 5th June
The day dawned fine and we set off towards Llanberis with fine views over the mirror calm of lake of Llyn Padarn and then followed the road into Llanberis before taking the pathway off to Snowdon. We passed the mountain railway terminus where the trains were beginning to get up steam. The morning was really fine and clear and the path was at an easy gradient so that despite the fact is that we had not ascended a mountain before the going was quite easy.
The first memorable view was across to Clogwyn du'r Arddu towering blackly above the lake at it's foot. The day was now becoming very hot and we stopped at the refreshment hut at the Halfway House and had the most delicious home-made lemonade before setting off again. The path climbed quite easily following the railway and then as we crossed through a tunnel beneath the railway there was suddenly a stupendous view to the Llanberis Pass with the ground seeming to drop vertically below our feet. Quite breathtaking and memorable view. The path now grew steeper and kept to the left of the railway which seemed to be perched on the very edge of the mountain with a fearful drop beneath. We were quite happy to be walking as the railway looked more dangerous! A final steep few hundred yards and we were at the top.
The summit cafeteria and crowds were not pleasant but the view was superb and we sat a little way down from the cairn to soak it all in. The sky was a brilliant blue with not a cloud in sight and the view stretched for miles. It was a strange feeling to be so high when an RAF plane flew along the valley and we were actually above it. After a short stay we headed down to follow the PYG track down to Llanberis Pass. The descent from the ridge was extremely steep, very rocky, and interesting. We picked up a piece of quartz for a souvenir and continued down towards Llyn Llydaw which nestled below and then followed the track below Crib Goch to Pen-y-Pass.
We were by now quite tired and the last part seemed almost endless but we finally reached the Pass and had tea in the cafe behind the Youth Hostel. It was now late evening and we still had a long way to go back to camp so feeling very tired we trudged down the Llanberis Pass trying to hitch a lift. A lorry driver stopped and after a little difficulty in our explaining where we were heading he dropped us off at the junction to Brynrefail and we staggered back to the tent after a tiring but very rewarding day.
Day - no cycling
Wednesday 6th June
After our very tiring walk yesterday we feared that we would find it impossible to ride but were very surprised to find our riding was not affected at all. Despite this it still took us the best part of the early morning to cycle up the Llanberis Pass due to the steep gradient and stifling heat. As we were peddling very slowly along we saw a Ring Ouzel flitting among the rocks by the tumbling streams. Upon reaching Pen-y-Pass we took a final look down into Llanberis and then thankfully rolled downhill to Beddgelert along the beautiful wooded Nantgwynant valley with lakes and streams all about.
We headed south through Beddgelert and turned off left at the B4410 which was a very lovely road climbing high into the hills and then swooping down to the river at Maentwrog where we turned towards Trawsfynydd. This was a different type of country now with less pronounced mountains although still quite high. The road was dead straight for six or seven miles before dropping down through a forest to Dolgellau. The forest was cool and refreshing and the glimpses down to the river below on our left added great interest. We passed through Dolgellau which seemed a very dull mining town and climbed high once more as the countryside became wider. We climbed a short hill amongst open country between mountains when suddenly there was a superb view three or four miles down the mountain-lined valley to the lake of Tal-y-Llyn at the foot. This was another road which tempted speed but which we did not wish to rush and we tried to soak in as much of the view as a possible as we descended. We were feeling tired but this view was certainly invigorating.
We headed on to Machynlleth along a winding road far above a river on the very border of the Snowdonia National Park and stopped shortly in Machynlleth before the final run to the camp site at Morben Isof. This had been a very mixed sort of day with very interesting scenery but also some very dull sections. Quite a long day too with 61 miles peddled.
Day - 61 miles Trip - 243 miles
Thursday 7th June
We passed by the estuary of the River Dovey first thing and followed the main road down to the A44 just east of Aberystwyth. Although the scenery was quite pleasant it lacked the impact of earlier days and passed by without too much notice. We were heading for Devil's Bridge and after stopping at a transport cafe we climbed up to the A4120 passing Capel Bangor station on the Devil's Bridge line. This was some climb going up and up very steeply so that we had to walk most of the way. It was a very pleasing country lane though making a change from the main roads we seemed to have been stuck on. At the top the climb did not seem worthwhile until the valley below opened out and it was indeed a splendid view well worthy of the effort. The river wound its way along the valley floor with the railway just above and away over on the other side, gleaming white waterfalls broke the green forests.
It was here high above that we saw a Red Kite with such a distinctive outline. We also noticed along this road there were signs indicating that the Milk Race had come this way and we were amazed that people could race along a road we could barely ride.
We could see the falls by Devil's Bridge and shortly reached the entrance where we squeezed through the turnstile slightly upset that we were expected to pay to see the natural countryside. We had up to now been pleased that our walk up Snowdon had not affected us but how wrong we were! The path descended down the stairway to the foot of the falls and we could hardly move. The pain in our calves was terrible and by the time we reached the bottom and had staggered up again we were like a pair of cripples. Never had we experienced such delayed reaction to an event. It proved beyond all doubt that totally different muscles were used for walking than for riding. The falls and the three bridges above were worth the pain though. We recuperated in a cafe above the bridge before deciding the next part of the journey. It was now time to think of heading back and we would need to head in the general direction of Crewe.
We chose a site just outside Newtown and headed straight there. The countryside had changed drastically now, becoming very flat, and we just concentrated on reaching the site. This was a modern caravan site and after 54 miles and the tiring descent to Devils Bridge we were thankful for a warm shower before turning into the night.
Day - 54 miles Trip - 297 miles
Friday 8th June
As this was the last day we stayed on the main roads to reach Crewe as quickly as possible. Somehow the last day of a holiday always seems flat but there were one or two interesting places. The first was at Whittington just past Oswestry where there was a castle surrounded by a moat just opposite the village shops. Nothing spectacular but one of the highlights of the day and a pleasant spot to stop for a bite to eat. On then to Ellesmere where we sat for a while beside the lake to watch the ducks. The remainder of the journey was straightforward and uninteresting passing through Whitchurch and Nantwich to reach Crewe in the early evening.
We were able to catch a train reaching London about 10 p.m. and after a ride through the City with no lights we arrived home about 11:30 p.m. It had been a glorious week, one of the hottest for a long while and it was to take quite a time for the sunburn to wear off. The final day's ride was 68 miles making a grand total of 365 miles.
Day - 68 miles Trip - 365 miles