The Lake District
1st June 1974 to 9th June 1974
Yet again only one week and we were off on holiday. We had planned a long tour from Keswick down to the southern part of Lakeland taking in many summits. We hoped that the weather would hold for a week to enable us to complete the journey.
Saturday 1st June 1974
With had again travelled overnight and arrived early Keswick on a bright morning. We wandered down to Derwentwater in the crisp bright morning to have some tea before setting out for Causey Pike across the water where we would camp before starting the journey in earnest on Sunday. We walked on footpaths through Keswick to Portinscale and across to Ullock following minor roads around Swinside and then alongside Newlands Beck. The beck was quite beautiful is we turned across it and we stood a short while to watch a Dipper by the bridge. Across the bridge Causey Pike came into view and looked quite close. We climbed up onto the side of Barrow and followed a path round towards the col between Causey Pike and Barrow looking for a place to camp. A fair distance up the beck we found an ideal site and pitched the tent early to have a good rest. It was a lovely spot right by the beck with a view over toward Derwentwater and we were happy to find such a spot. A few hours later we were not so happy as a howling wind roared down from the fells straight along the along the beck as a storm broke. The rain lashed against the tent sending a fine spray through and the wind roared and rattled about the tent so ferociously that we spent a good part of the night holding on to the tent poles praying that the guy ropes would hold. We did manage at last to drift off to sleep resigned to the fact that there was not a lot we could do.
Sunday 2nd June 1974
We scrambled out to inspect the damage, quite amazed that tent still standing for the wind was still blowing strongly. There was, luckily, little damage and we were glad to see the blue sky up above. As we were camped almost under the summit of Causey Pike it was a simple matter to press straight up to the ridge and this we did enjoying on the way the fine views of Derwentwater and Skiddaw behind us. Having reached the ridge the Newlands Valley opened up below us and was a glorious sight. Up on the ridge the wind was very strong and needed to be fought against to keep our balance. In this wind the rocky summit of Causey Pike defeated us and we followed an escape route round the side hoping to regain the ridge further along. Fortunately this path curved round and led to the top of Causey Pike so that the wind hadn't, after all, robbed us of our first objective. Once we found some shelter it was good to be up high and ahead of us the ridge snaked on to Eel Crag and beyond and looked inviting. Over the separate tops and on to Scar Crags with tremendous drops to the left we walked fighting against the wind. Sail stretched up before us and looked a long pull but it was very pleasant along the ridge. From Sail the ridge looked more interesting as it climbed to Eel Crag and we climbed high among the rocks to reach the summit - a huge level plateau with views of the mountains all around. We descended to Wandope and then climbed to Whiteless Pike and looked back along the ridge to Causey Pike. This really was a fine ridge walk and it was a little sad that we now had to descend to the valley. The wind still tugged at us as we descended and blew us of the path making quite a fight to reach Buttermere. We did finally reach Buttermere and stopped in the cafe before following the path alongside the lake to find the campsite. The site was the back garden of a guesthouse and made a change from the usual sites. It was in superb situation and we were able to enjoy the lakeside only a short distance away. Today's walk had been one of the finest walks to date and we hoped that tomorrow's walk along the High Stile ridge high above us on the other side of Buttermere would be equally as good.
Monday 3rd June 1974
An early-morning walk along the shore of Buttermere took us across the fields to Buttermere Dubs to begin to climb to Red Pike and the ridge towering above Buttermere. The climb started in the forest and rose very steeply amongst tumbled boulders and moss covered slopes until we broke free of the trees and gained a fine view of Crummock Water to the west. The path really steepened now and climbed high over huge boulders perched precariously on the fellside. In a short while the path levelled and we traversed towards Blueberry Tarn. We had until now been heading away from Red Pike as the path climbed the mountain in a huge zigzag. After a brief visit to the upper parts of Sour Milk Gill we came upon Blueberry Tarn nestled perfectly in a rocky combe. The found some shelter by a decaying wall and brewed some tea whilst contemplating the high summit Red Pike above us with the path cut deeply into its red soil. The path was well eroded and easy to follow although very steep at the top and we were soon at the summit to be greeted by a fierce icy wind. We found shelter at the cairn and rested awhile before heading along the wide ridge to High Stile and High Crag. Away in the distance the distinctive profile of Scafell showed just beneath the clouds but the ridge ahead was clear. The way was easy with the wind now behind us but the clouds were building up towards the South West and were soon upon us. Visibility was cut to 50 yards or so and the damp air whipped across the mountain. We had no need to worry about direction as we could follow the boundary fence along the ridge and this we did without difficulty. We visited the cairn on High Stile and pressed quickly on to High Crag arriving there as the mist blew over and enjoyed the superb view to the Honister Pass and Fleetwith Pike. We intended to camp in Ennerdale, a beautiful wild valley which lay spread out ahead of us to the right with the forestry plantations clearly defined as if on the map. We could see where we wanted to camp so descended towards Scarf Gap for what we thought would be the short stroll down to the valley. The descent from High Crag was unbelievably steep and our legs faltered under the strain so that the rest of the day was to be weary indeed. We travelled on and on hoping that each turn of a corner would find us a place to camp but we still hadn't reached the valley proper. At length we came to the forest fence and followed this round to the Black Sail Youth Hostel situated in one of the most secluded spots in the country. A superb situation. There was no one about as the hut was closed on Mondays so we passed by and turned at the end of the forest to find the most perfect campsite any weary traveller could wish for, a wide grassy shelf alongside the River Liza at the edge of the forest. We pitched camp and sat in wonder at the superb scenery all about us.
Tuesday 4th June 1974
We peered out of the tent only to see Great Gable sheathed in morning mist looking much larger than it had done the evening before. We were worried the day might close in but need have had no such fears as it turned out to be a particularly fine day. We could see our route ahead, right up alongside the River Liza to Windy Gap on the skyline and we started off as the morning sun began to break through. Our muscles were stiff but the delightful scenery compensated and we ambled on stopping every so often and admire the tumbling, dancing, waters of the River Liza. To look back was to view a perfect mountain landscape with two parallel ridges enclosing the forested shores of Ennerdale Water. The glacial moraines of the valley were below us, each a miniature hill and white clouds sailed across the sky. A delightful scene. But we must go forward and so slowly Windy Gap crept closer and once the ground changed from grass to broken scree we knew the top of the pass was close. We scrambled up to see stretched before us the splendour of the very centre of Lakeland. Styhead Tarn lay immediately below us with Sprinkling Tarn higher up the long path to Bowfell. We stood at a mountain crossroads and although Great Gable was perhaps too high to climb we could easily reach Green Gable to our left. The rucksacks would be safe near the cairn as no one was in sight and it was a glorious relief to walk free up to the summit of Green Gable. We didn't stay long as the path towards Bowfell looked long and sleep and we wanted to camp at a time Angle Tarn just over the horizon. With rucksacks shouldered once again we descended quickly down Aaron Slack to find Styhead Tarn just the place to stop for lunch. We sat by the shore and studied the huge face of Great End directly ahead of us. The track up towards Allen Crags was very popular and many walkers passed by as we stopped for photographs or to admire the waterfalls. Sprinkling Tarn appeared as we topped a rise, brilliant blue among the green fells, a very beautiful gem to be long remembered. We reached Allen Crags sooner than we thought we would and as the wind whipped quite coldly across the summit we sat and decided to abandon our plan to camp at Angle Tarn. The path was too popular and as it was a fine day we thought we would continue over Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. As we turned to Ore Gap, just above Angle Tarn, we found a tiny frog on a rock and watched while he jumped way into the grass. The path climbed through Ore Gap and turned among large boulders to the summit of Bowfell and we climbed higher until the rocky top was reached. There were several people at the cairn but as there was such a superb view across to Scafell and Scafell Pike and down to Lingcove Beck we stayed close to the summit perched among the rocks. We thought, perhaps, we would camp at Three Tarns but warnings of the difficulties of Crinkle Crags in bad weather persuaded us to continue over Crinkle Crags to seek a camp site further on. We descended from Bowfell and then started to climb along the winding path of Crinkle Crags. The path was difficult to follow even in this fine weather being entirely on rock but was nevertheless a splendid exhilarating path weaving intricately in and out of rocky knolls and passing tiny trapped tarns with jagged rocks surrounds. We were very glad to have good weather for this part of the trip and enjoyed the path over Crinkle Crags immensely despite our now feeling very tired. Once Crinkle Crags had been left behind it was just a matter of pure willpower to keep us going until we could reach Red Tarn, the nearest place we could camp with a supply of water. We staggered on and on till at last we thankfully sank down beside the tarn to rest for the night. In view of the strenuous start to the day we could hardly believe how far we had come and we could now sit and reflect on the day as the sun sank down behind Bowfell and Wetherlam ahead of us bathed in a golden light. A quiet and peaceful end to one of our finest mountain days.
Wednesday 5th June 1974
How glad we were, when we peered from the tent, that we had tackled Crinkle Crags yesterday. The tarn was barely visible and thick mist hung all about us as the rain pattered steadily on the tent. We turned back inside and snuggled down into our warm bags not wishing to face such a day. We had planned to follow the ridge to Swirl How on to Coniston Old Man but this was now fairly pointless. Instead we would reach Coniston by a lowland route and at last we forced ourselves to pack and begin the day. It really was a wet and miserable day and we kept as well wrapped up as we could to keep dry. All around the water trickled in little streamlets past our boots rushing to find a beck or river lower down. We followed the Wrynose Pass down to Fell Foot and there turned across the fields to High Tilberthwaite which despite being of modest height had some interesting points with many colours in the bracken and grass. The rain had not eased and we were now quite wet and so just plodded on hoping to arrive in Coniston quickly. We had our lunch by farmyard gate and were visited by a farm dog as we sat on the road. We passed a signpost to Tilberthwaite Falls but didn't have the heart to visit them and so pressed on to the main road. The rain had at last eased and we walked quite pleasantly through the woods alongside the main road until it came into Coniston. We were able to find a café to thaw ourselves out a little and then went to camp early at a site alongside Coniston Water. As we unpacked the rucksacks we were dismayed to find everything wet and this had certainly dampened our enthusiasm. Still there was nothing to be done and we therefore started the dinner and hoped that we would have a warm night.
Thursday 6th June 1974
Still raining this morning and we wasted quite a lot of time deciding whether to leave the site and where to go if we did. At long last we decided to move after the rain had eased and we headed for Hawkshead. The rain had at least left everything fresh and we discovered many flowers on our way. At the head of Coniston a beautiful view stretched way down the lake. We tried to use footpaths wherever possible but often found it necessary to use the road. Footpaths are much more difficult to find in the valleys. A stile into a green field led us across some pleasant countryside into Hawkshead which we approached through the churchyard. This was certainly a better approach to Hawkshead than along the main road as here the cottages seemed not to have changed with the years. The shops and houses along the road are more modern but nevertheless remains very interesting village. As we had some tea we discovered we were close to the Grizedale Forest and we decided to walk through to the campsite at Grizedale. Leaving Hawkshead was easy but finding our way into and through the forest was the difficult part. Having found a path and struggled through some overgrown places we came to a forest road and this we were able to follow to the site. The forest was not good to look at, all the trees being planted so close together so as to exclude all light. We knew that there were deer in the forest but it was difficult to understand how they could live in such gloom. Somewhere there must be more open places. The forest road eventually led to the made up road at Grizedale and here we were able to call at the Grizedale Visitor Centre to look at their exhibits before finding the site. The campsite was in the grounds of a large house and we were able to have our own pitch on a small ledge above the other grounds and just below the parapet of the forecourt. We were able at last to attempt to dry out more thoroughly.
Friday 7th June 1974
The first mile or so this morning was back along the forest road but somehow it seemed a little more interesting. When we reached a more open part we were able to see evidence of what we thought may have been deer and also badgers or foxes. Several footprints and holes in plantation fences were all we saw but it was more exciting to imagine what animals were about. Perhaps only sheep? Ahead of us now lay Esthwaite Water and the gentle hills beyond. This was certainly a contrast to the high mountains and it was difficult to believe that we were in the same part of the country. Very pleasant wooded lanes led around the Water and up to Near Sawrey where we visited Beatrix Potter's house once more. This time we were able to take a few photographs. From here our road led through Far Sawrey and down to the ferry landing passing on the way clumps of Hollyhocks in the woods. The ferry took us into Windermere where we wandered aimlessly trying to decide what to do. We decided to join the tourists and take a boat ride on Windermere and pick up the bus at Ambleside for Keswick. The little cruise was really much better than we had anticipated and no dearer than taking the bus judging from our past experience of bus fares. Having disembarked at Ambleside pier we walked through to the bus station and caught a bus to Grasmere to look round the village and bookshop. Finally we took another bus into Keswick and on to what was by now becoming our regular site.
Saturday 8th June 1974
Our coach left on Sunday morning so we had a whole day to spare. This we filled by taking a walk to Walla Crag and beyond discovering a very picturesque waterfall on Cat Gill before dropping down to the shore of Derwentwater and following this round into Keswick. It was quite a pleasant, relaxed, walk and left us time for a good look round Keswick. We called at the bookshops as usual and bought several books which we either couldn't find in London or couldn't resist. So we walked back to the site loaded up to settle down for the final night to be ready for tomorrow's coach journey.