The Lake District
25th May 1974 to 27th May 1974 (Whitsun)
Our first proper backpacking trip, having by now purchased all of our equipment. We had planned a circular route from Keswick and set off for Victoria Coach Station to catch the 23.00 hours coach.
Saturday 25th May 1974
We arrived in Keswick early and immediately set off for Bleaberry Fell, little realising how tired we were after the overnight journey. As soon as the ground steepened we began to feel weary and it was a struggle to reach our objective. The summit looked tantalisingly close but the ground between was quite rough and the going slow. We finally made the summit and sat down exhausted. We lay in the sunshine by the summit cairn and fell asleep for an hour. A glorious hour in the warmth of the sun and the fresh air that left us feeling a little stronger. We now set off for High Seat and High Tove across an upland plateau of wet peat. The ground held the moisture so that it was difficult to avoid the bogs and pools among the peat. The scenery was quite fascinating even if the going was a little difficult. High Seat itself, the summit that is, was a welcome dry oasis several feet above the surrounding land and we sat and rested awhile before continuing over the peat to High Tove. From here we turned away towards Armboth Fell and although the peat was left behind, thick bracken and hidden boggy patches made it just as difficult. Armboth Fell sumit was again high above the surrounding land, a dry rocky perch. We looked at the map and thought there would not be far to go to Harrop Tarn where we hoped to camp and decided that it must be just over a ridge on the horizon. We struggled to the ridge and upon reaching the top saw - nothing but more fellside and a forest away to the left. We plodded on now very weary and followed the forestry plantation fence for what seemed like miles until we finally found a gate. Once in the forest the going was more pleasant as we descended the fellside knowing that we would shortly reach the place where we were to camp. There at last was Harrop Tarn through the trees to the right and it turned out to be a perfect site, with a grassy bank between a fast running stream and the tarn. The perfect spot after a tiring day and we could now pitch the tent and rest alongside the beauty of this lovely tarn among the fells.
Sunday 26th May 1974
As we left this morning a couple of fishermen had arrived and sat at the far side of the town. They evidently had risen much earlier than we. At first we became confused as to the direction but found a waterfall amid the lush greenery of the forest that gave a chance for some photographs. We had to descend by Dob Gill to the road in order to reach the far side of Thirlmere and once we had found the path the descent was straightforward though quite steep. Although the cascades of Dob Gill were hidden by trees we could hear their thunder as we walked down the pathway. Once off the fellside we had a mile or so of road walking past the head of Thirlmere to reach Wythburn for the path to Hellvellyn. The tiny whitewashed church looked quite lovely among the trees but strange in its quite isolated position. After a rest and some food in the churchyard we began the climb to Hellvellyn - a steep path through the forest and then out onto the open fellside. The day was now very hot which made the climb exhausting work and we rested frequently, stopping once for some cool water from a mountain stream. The path was popular and all varieties of people were attempting the summit, either freely or being forced up by others. Women in high-heeled shoes, old ladies and children, being dragged and cajoled up the mountainside. Such a pity. To us the climb went on and on and seemed every bit of 3000 odd feet that was Hellvellyn's but eventually the ground levelled out and the final mile was a simple stroll. There were far too many people at the summit so we sat some way below overlooking Red Tarn and were very surprised to see quite a large patch of snow on this side. The crowds finally drove us away and putting on our boots once more we set off along the high ridge of the Hellvellyn range towards Raise. As we turned toward Hellvellyn Lower Man we found more banks of snow lying thickly on the northern side and were again surprise at finding snow on so hot a day and when it was almost June. The rocky descent from Hellvellyn Lower Man gave way to more gentle grassy slopes leading to White Side and then on to Raise. The summits here were not quite as deceiving as others had been and the climb to each was fairly straightforward. We had hoped to go further on the ridge but when descending from Raise realised that we must now head for Keswick. At Sticks Pass we turned left and followed the well marked path down to Stannah Gill which we visited for a drink. Lower down as the valley came into sight Stannah Gill cut more deeply into the fellside and fell to the valley and a series of lovely cascades. Our legs were tired and the final steep descent to the road took all our energy just to stay upright. Unfortunately we were still four miles or so from Keswick and had to follow the road all the way. It was agony. We had never felt so tired and just plodded on and on hoping that somebody would offer us a lift. Nobody did, so we staggered on a little at a time until the last turn off the road across the fields to find the site that we had used at Easter. We were so thankful to be here and collapsed. As we struggled to put up the tent and elderly couple in a caravan offered us some tea and brought it over for us. As we took the cups back they invited us inside and we chatted for a while before finally settling down for a well earned sleep.
Monday 27th of May 1974
All too soon we must head for home and, rising early, we followed the familiar path down into Keswick. Although it is always difficult to force ourselves to get up so early, the clear morning air is due reward. Unfortunately we were not as early as we had thought and had to rush the last few hundred yards through Keswick. We were soon on our way south once again leaving this beautiful countryside behind.