The Peak District
1st September 1974 to 7th September 1974
Having been to the Lake District several times in a row we felt we now needed a change but we were still addicted to the hills. The Peak District seemed to offer ideal opportunities being fairly near and thus not so expensive and having some high land around Kinder Scout. With these considerations in mind we boarded the coach for Sheffield.
Sunday 1st September 1974
The coach took us into the centre of Sheffield from where we were to catch the train take Edale. Sheffield and its surroundings were quite dismal but after passing through a very long tunnel the train brought us into another world. The dirt and grime of the industrial Midlands had gone to be replaced by lush green fields and valleys. We had only time to reached Edale and pitch the tent and have a quick look round and so we settled down to plan the week.
Monday 2nd September 1974
The day was wet with low clouds so that we could not go to Kinder Scout and so we headed for the far side of the valley to cross the ridge on the skyline and visit Castleton and Winnats Pass. The countryside was far different from the Lakes being much flatter over a larger area but it made a change. The rain was falling heavily by the time we reached Castleton and we called in at a small café for some tea and temporary shelter. Walking on the hills was not going to be much fun in this rain and so we stopped by the Peak Cavern, thinking at least it would be dry. We were taken on a conducted tour which, apart from the well rehearsed commentary, was very interesting. The cavern was deep with stalactites and different levels of passages and when the lights were switched off the dark was darker than we could have thought possible. Our tour ended, we were once again out in the rain and walked to the Winnats Pass which was quite splendid. Being not a very nice day there were a few people about. At the top of the pass we turned across fields and walked round beside Mam Tor to descend back into the Edale valley and return to the camp site.
Tuesday 3rd September 1974
A slightly drier day and we were able to walk right along the ridge from Lords Seat to Back Tor. The Edale Valley was quite pleasant but not until we passed through Barber Booth did we experience the real joy of hill walking. We climbed higher and higher up to the ridge and then turned along to the summit of Lords Sat and along to Mam Tor and Back Tor. The ridge was very interesting dipping up and down with always views to the left of Kinder Scout and is outliers high above Edale. We had hoped to reach Lose Hill but felt that we would not have time to return to Edale from Back Tor. A very fine days walking.
Wednesday 4th September 1974
We today walked up Grindsbrook towards Kinder Scout along the start of the Pennine Way. We crossed the log bridge across Grindsbrook and ventured up to the woodlands where the fields gave way to open countryside. Here we were delighted to find red-spotted toadstools - Fly Agaric - the first we had ever seen. Ahead the eye followed the valley higher and a higher as it narrowed it towards its source on Kinder Scout. It was again raining but not too heavily so we could enjoy the walk. It was a fine walk indeed beside Grindsbrook and became wilder and more exciting as we climbed higher. Behind were superb views across the valley to the Mam Tor ridge with Edale village nestling somewhere below. A short distance before the plateau the way became quite steep making it necessary in places to use hands to climb up. At the very top the path took to the stream itself as it climbed high among tumbled rocks. As the ground levelled we were almost in the clouds and visibility ahead was not good. We advanced carefully in a strange world of huge peat hags and running water - quite a strange place. Having no wish to be lost up here we returned to Grindsbrook and descended the way we had come. Upon reaching the woodlands we realised that much of the day was still left and therefore climbed up beside Golden Clough to Ringing Roger high above. The climb was slightly strenuous as we were not following a beaten path but blazing straight up through the bracken. At the summit we found curiously eroded rocks, smoothed and cut by the wind and rain into strange and wonderful shapes. A new experience of Nature for us. To reach Edale we walked along to The Nab and descended a well worn pathway propped up in places to resemble a long drawn out staircase. Evidently a very popular path. Finally across the fields and back to the camp, a little disappointed at not seeing more of Kinder but still quite pleased with the day.
Thursday 5th September 1974
Not wishing to repeat the Grindsbrook route so soon we chose instead the alternative Pennine Way route via Upper Booth. The beginning, across fields and farms was pleasant, but the real beauty was reserved for later. Just past Upper Booth a very pretty river wended its way to the valley and we followed the course of this upstream to cross at the packhorse bridge beneath Jacob's Ladder. This was a lovely spot with waterfalls chattering down from the hills and a rocky skyline all around. Jacob's Ladder climbed high into the hills giving superb views back along the whole of the Edale Valley and we followed this path to a large cairn just before Edale Cross where we turned towards Kinder. The direction was confusing but we located Kinder Low and then headed towards the highest part which really seemed no higher than the rest of the plateau. We did find some sort of cairn however and presumed that this was the highest point and then headed for what we thought was Grindsbrook. Nothing looked familiar and we felt ourselves lost so just followed the path eastwards hoping we would pick up path towards the valley. The path led on climbing up and dipping down till at length we found ourselves on Kinder Edges above Grindsbrook. We continued round to pay our second visit to Ringing Roger before descending The Nab to Edale. We had hoped to reach Kinder Downfall but the plateau seemed so immense we were worried about becoming lost. Besides we still had one more day to try.
Friday 6th September 1974
A fine sunny morning, the first of the holiday, and we were now quite confident we would reach Kinder Downfall. We climbed up the Grindsbrook path and reached the plateau. A slight path and a compass bearing took us away over the moor as Red Grouse cluttered angrily away from our footsteps. In good visibility this was a quite amazing place. Peat hags everywhere with black, oozing, sludge in deep channels up to 10 feet in depth crossed out path and there was no alternative but to press on in a straight line desperately try to find a piece of dry ground here and there. It was tough going but eventually, in the distance, we could see the Ordnance Survey column just past Kinder Downfall. It was just possible that we would make it but then the clouds descended to within about 10 feet of our heads and the heavens opened. On the horizon a band of bright light was sandwiched between the black moorland and dark sky and the effect was quite amazing. When the thunder broke however and huge hailstones lashed down it became very frightening to be alone on the moor with the result that we rushed back along a channel to reach Grindsbrook. By the time we reached the edge the storm had passed but our chance of reaching Kinder Downfall had gone. We visited it The Anvil and returned to Edale over Grindslow Knoll by way of a change. So, yet again it had rained meaning that we had not had one dry day all week. This was our last day. We returned home on the 7th.