The LAKE DISTRICT
13th December 1975 to 26th December 1975
Christmas in the Lake District with plenty of walking and a few days off
Saturday 13th December
Arrived in Ambleside at about 8:50 a.m. following a long, cold, coach journey. Nowhere to leave the rucksacks so after a cup of tea we went to see Stock Ghyll Force and spent about an hour exploring and photographing. Lots of icicles where the water splashed up from the falls. Photographed the view across to Langdale Pikes. Returned to Ambleside and then walked onto Grasmere alongside Rydal Water and along Loughrigg Terrace. Wandered round Grasmere for a while then came up to the flat, dumped the gear and went shopping. Flat is not bad but will take a lot of getting used to.
Sunday 14th December
Set off just before 10 o'clock to follow the path around the side of Nab Scar into Rydal and Rydal Water. Crossed the River Rothay and made our way up to the cave on Loughrigg, then on up to the summit reached by several tops. It was very hot on the way, almost like summer. The view from Loughrigg East summit was amazing -with mist filling the whole of Grasmere and Dunmail with the fells appearing above. The sky and mist was constantly changing. We then went on to Silver How descending to Loughrigg Terrace and then climbed up again to the summit. A climb that was easier than we thought. Another tremendous view from Silver How with the skies clearing and the red of the sky catching the clouds. Flushed with success at this easy climb we decided to stroll across to Blea Rigg and nearly met with disaster. The distance looked short but as we reached top after top it began to grow dark and we still hadn't reached the summit. So we gave up and made a treacherous descent as darkness was falling heading, so we thought, directly to Easedale Tarn. A very high crag stopped us on one path and we turned back up the fell to descend by another route. A very steep, slippery, pathless, descent brought us to a marshy level area and we managed then to pick up a path which led down to the path alongside Easedale Beck. We walked back to Grasmere in darkness. We had descended alongside Blind Tarn Gill - not the way we had anticipated but a way that did at least bring us to safety.
Fells - Loughrigg Fell
Monday 15th December
Firstly we discovered that we hadn't ascended Silver How after all - we had stopped at a point midway - still we can do this another day. The sun was shining brightly as we climbed the path behind the house leading to Alcock Tarn - a very steep path in places but with fine views back to Grasmere and of the mist catching the sunlight over Windermere and Coniston. Although feeling a bit stiff and tired we soon reached Alcock Tarn and as we seemed to be so close to Heron Pike we decided to climb it instead of going over to Stone Arthur as we had originally intended. The climb to Heron Pike proved to be very steep on long grass and we were feeling the strain as we reached the ridge path from Nab Scar. There was here a superb view over Windermere and Ambleside. A short stroll along the ridge path brought us to the summit. From here we could see the whole of the Fairfield horseshoe and we toyed with the idea of completing it now that we were up on the ridge. We decided to wait until we reached Great Rigg. The walk along the ridge was a fine walk with the path steepening as we approached the cairn on Great Rigg.
By now some of the Western fells were topped with cloud and we decided to do the horseshoe another day and to return today to Grasmere by Stone Arthur. From the summit of Great Rigg there was a superb view of Striding Edge - dark and foreboding. The stroll down to Stone Arthur was easy although we had difficulty in finding the right summit until it became obvious. The descent from there was steep and cut across to Greenhead Gill where there was an artificial pool of the clear water. We followed the gill downwards pausing at an old mine working, past where the Thirlmere aqueduct crosses, which from the fell tops looked like a giant grave. We then walked into Grasmere. In Grasmere we bought two vacuum flasks for tea and soup on the fells and then trudged wearily up the steep road to the flat.
Fells - Great Rigg - Heron Pike - Stone Arthur
Tuesday 16th December
A strange day of low clouds, mist, sunny patches and blue skies. As the cloud was not too low, although it covered most of the higher fells, we decided to try Helm Crag and the ridge beyond. After taking the wrong road in the valley we started up the path and found the going very hot even though it was raining slightly. There were glimpses over to Easdale Tarn and a fine view of Sour Milk Gill and a good retrospective view of Grasmere. As we approached the summit the ground became very rocky and soon we reached the Lion and Lamb. The summit ridge was quite amazing with huge boulders scattered about everywhere and the giant north western rocks towering above all. We stopped in a small hollow for tea and although the mist appeared fairly low we decided to press on to Gibson Knott. The descent from Helm Crag was steep and a little tricky but the going after that was remarkably easy. We soon reached Gibson Knott. The skies were now clearing up but were soon to cloud over again as we made our way to Calf Crag. As we climbed higher and reached Pike of Carrs the mist began to descend and we quickened our pace over the now peaty ground to reach the summit. Having found where the boundary fence was for safety in case the mist should worsen we stopped for soup in the shelter of some rocks.
The wind was blowing strongly now and in the mist it was chilly. After a short rest we made our way to the fence and followed it across wet and marshy ground and across many rises and drops until we reached the summit of Steel Fell. The mist, which had cleared away when we were crossing the depression, now came down again so that there was no view, save for occasional glimpses of the valleys. We set off down the southeast ridge which, just beyond the summit, was quite steep and then made our way down to Gill Foot for the long trudge into Grasmere. On the way down Helm Crag appeared in different guises across the Greenburn Valley and we could see and hear the traffic on Dunmail Raise. A dog greeted us at the foot of the path and came a bit too close further down the road. The walk into Grasmere was long and uninteresting along the tarmac roads and the climb up to the flat nearly finished us off.
Fells - Calf Crag - Gibson Knott - Helm Crag - Steel Fell
Wednesday 17th December
A bright fine morning as we decided to try the Fairfield horseshoe. Off to a bad start as Denise's foot was hurting but we carried on up to the ridge of Nab Scar. As usual the going first thing was very tough and we hurried up to the ridge and missed the summit. Rather than turn back we went along the ridge to Heron Pike but by now a very strong, icy, wind was blowing and grew worse and colder as we went on to Great Rigg. There was a small amount of snow on the fells and by the time we reached the summit of Great Rigg heavy snow clouds had begun to move in from the North East. We decided to wait a while as the clouds had come down over Fairfield. As we sat by the cairn it grew very cold and icy and after about half an hour we decided to go down rather than risk continuing. We set off down towards Greenside Gill but then decided that we should take in Nab Scar so returned to the ridge and walked along to Nab Scar. Our feet were hurting and we rested a while before descending. The clouds and colours of the sky during the day had been quite remarkable and it was good to be sitting by the cairn on Great Rigg as a few flakes of snow fell and to watch the sky. By the time we had almost reached the flat the sun was setting to round off an exciting day.
Fells - Nab Scar - Great Rigg - Heron Pike
Thursday 18th December
A day of rest to recover from the strains and bruises of the past few days. As we awoke the garden outside was sprinkled with snow but unfortunately it soon turned to rain. We set off for Keswick and watched the mist on the fells as we walked down. It looked really good as it kept changing. We intended to buy some Christmas presents in Keswick but after a lot of trudging round managed to buy only a slate drawing for mum. To make up though we bought ourselves some books - Wainwright's Fourth and Fifth Sketchbooks and A History of the Writings of Beatrix Potter - together with some cards and Mountain magazine. By the time we returned to Grasmere it was dark.
Friday 19th December
Another rest day. Weatherwise a day much like Wednesday, starting off bright and clear but soon becoming overcast. We got up late and threw some food out for the Robins but just as they were starting to eat a Jay swooped down and made off with the food. It seemed possible that I might get a picture so I sat patiently for some time in the garden whilst Denise threw out some shortbread. After a short while the Jay swooped down, I pressed the shutter and he was gone. About all we'll get in that picture is a tail disappearing at the top, if indeed we get that. Gave up shortly after that as time was getting on, so took a few pictures in the garden and set off for Ambleside along the Nab Scar path. Stopped several times along the way photographing trees, grass, moss etc and the gates we passed through. It was a nice walk.
In Ambleside we looked around all the shops in the vain hope of getting some Christmas presents. There were plenty of nice things but rather expensive. We saw many things that we'd like for ourselves but were not sure about as presents. We did go to the bookshop (again) and bought Ring of Bright Water and The Roof of England. Finally grew tired of looking for presents and returned to Grasmere. We walked back along the main road for a change and attempted to photograph Rydal Water in the evening light and mist. As it was growing dark fairly long exposures were needed and we can only guess at the results. We turned off the road before Grasmere and joined the road running behind the house and reached the flat at about five o'clock.
Saturday 20 December
Got up earlier than usual and phoned Windermere weather forecast which said 'drizzle in the morning becoming dry and bright later', so we set off for Grisedale Tarn leaving the decision of climbing either Fairfield or Dollywagon Pike until we reached the tarn. Shortly after leaving, whilst walking along the main road, Denise had a nose bleed - not a very promising start. We pressed on though, stopping for some tea shortly after we turned off the road. The path climbed alongside Tongue Gill and the gradient was surprisingly gentle, a very pleasant path, becoming slightly steeper higher up when it crossed some scree. The mist was at about the height of the final ridge before Grisedale Tarn and as we passed over this ridge there was a view across the tarn and down to Ullswater. We sat by the tarn and as we did so the mist came much lower obscuring the view. We decided to forget Fairfield and go for Dollywagon Pike and Nethermost Pike and, possibly, on to Hellvellyn. The path was well trodden and should be safe in the mist. As we climbed above the tarn the mist cleared for an instant giving a glimpse of Fairfield's northern flanks patched with snow. It looked quite enormous and a complete contrast to its southern side seen from Great Rigg. The path to Dollywagon Pike was very clear and, although steep in places, we soon reached the summit passing on the way several patches of snow. We had to leave the path for the summit cairn and by this time we were really into the clouds with a strongish wind lashing drizzle and rain across. Visibility, nonetheless, was quite reasonable so that it was no great feat to regain the path. The broad footpath led on to Nethermost Pike whose summit we passed but came back to. We went to two cairns to make sure before descending. It was quite cold and although we thought about Hellvellyn we decided to go down. We descended the path to Wythburn Church which seemed a lot easier than when we came up that way to Hellvellyn. We soon reached the church and took the bus into Grasmere, quite a shock - 33p each for a journey of approximately 4 1/2 miles!
On the way back to the flat we stopped off at the Dove Cottage shop to buy some books for a possible slide feature. Bought Grasmere and the Wordsworth's and The Journals of Dorothy Wordsworth.
Our first week seems to have gone quickly once we got used to the flat. Let's hope that we have some more fine days next week and perhaps even some snow!
Fells - Dollywagon Pike - Nethermost Pike
Sunday 21st December
Woke up later than intended. Threw some bread down for the birds and along came a red squirrel to pick up the scraps. He stayed a while and then scampered off across the wall. We threw out a slice of bread and after a while he came back and sat by the wall and ate almost the whole slice. Unfortunately the light wasn't yet strong enough to photograph him. He finally scampered off with just a crust which he couldn't manage and we set off for the fells. We went through Grasmere for Silver How passing Allan Bank house on way. The path was quite clear and we soon reached the top. There was quite a view down to Grasmere and over to Rydal Water and, separately, across to Windermere, a very fine viewpoint indeed. We proceeded to Blea Rigg and now that we knew exactly where we were the path was easy to follow and, although it was much further than we had been last Sunday, we reach the summit without further incident. The wind had picked up a bit and it was drizzling, the visibility becoming very poor.
We proceeded down to Stickle Tarn and paused to view Pavey Ark, a tremendous precipice, and we saw several other walkers about and quite a few going up Jack's Rake. We descended by Mill Gill which has some very beautiful cascades and waterfalls. As the drizzle was still falling it was difficult to take many photographs but we took a few. By the time we reached the Dungeon Ghyll Hotel it was about three o'clock - it was surprising that it was so late. We walked up to Harry Place farm and debated whether we should take the fell path or go by road but chose the former even though it would most likely be dark by the time we reached Grasmere. The path was very interesting - steep in places and contouring above steep fellsides. The walk was quite easy though and the wall which accompanied the descent to Grasmere soon came into view. We stopped for some tea and descended the rest of the path in the fading light so that by the time we reached Grasmere it was quite dark. The usual toil up to Wood Close was brightened by finding a frog on the road which, after studying for a few minutes, we put back near the pond. An interesting finish to an interesting day.
P.S. On the descent to Langdale we met four young calves - completely black - who were quite as interested in us as we were in them.
Fells - Blea Rigg - Silver How
Monday 22nd December
Not such a strenuous day. We woke slightly earlier and caught the bus from the Swan Hotel at Grasmere to Dale Bottom and then walked along the road to the Church of St Johns-in-the-Vale which was a really beautiful little church. Tried some photographs of the interior but doubt whether they will turn out. From there it was an easy walk up to High Rigg where we sheltered from the wind and had tea. We set off over the top of High Rigg and found it a very pleasant walk with some beautiful colouring on the fellside. As we were approaching the road we saw what we think was a buzzard hovering high in the sky and swooping over the hillside. We watched it for some time. Along the road to the foot of Raven Crag we saw some dogs hound trailing and quite a few seemed completely lost. The path up to Raven Crag was steep through the forest and difficult to follow after the main cairn but we eventually worked our way through and came to the summit. We moved nearer the precipice for a superb view of Thirlmere - it was a shame that the day was so grey, although the clouds were now lifting. The view was well worth the climb and would be really tremendous in clear weather. We descended very quickly to the road and walked on to Stanah where we were just in time to catch the bus back to Grasmere. The day had started drizzly and rainy but the clouds gradually lifted so that there were now patches of blue sky. As we walked through Grasmere on the way home the clouds bubbled and boiled overhead, bright and bluish to the south and north but crimson and grey to the west. Very interesting to watch.
Fells - High Rigg - Raven Crag
Tuesday 23rd December
Another rest day although we had planned to walk. The squirrel turned up again and filled himself with another slice of bread. Watched the birds in the garden during the morning and then went for a walk along the shore of Rydal Water via the top of White Moss. The day was overcast but quite bright and there were fairly large waves on the lake. We thought about going to Rydal Mount but it was closed so we went to Ambleside instead. There we finally bought presents for Christmas and also a 2½ inch map of the lakes "Wastwater and Coniston". Walked back to the flat along the Nab Scar path and it started raining as we arrived. Let's hope that the rain will mean clearer skies tomorrow.
Saw a Kestrel over Rydal Water and a Nuthatch by the shore.
Wednesday 24th December
Our best day. Blue skies early on with the sun colouring the clouds, a snowstorm on Fairfield, snow on the tops and seven summits in one day. We woke early while it was a still dark in order to catch the 8:20 a.m. bus into Ambleside. As the sky grew light around eight o'clock there were few clouds and the sky was blue. By the time we reached Grasmere it was completely overcast and raining. We pressed on hoping the weather would improve and by the time we were walking up the Kirkstone Pass road from Ambleside the rain had stopped and the sun was catching clouds over in the West. As we turned off the road there was a superb view of the snow-covered central fells with golden bracken on the lower fells as the foreground. The path was easy but we kept thinking that the next top was close to the summit and were not sure exactly how far we had gone. As we reached above 2000 feet the snow was lying on the ground and it was quite thick at the top. There was a grand view down onto the Kirkstone Pass Inn and at the very summit of Red Screes there was a frozen tarn reflecting all the colours of the clouds and sky. A strong wind was blowing and we descended to the depression of the Scandale Pass to have tea. A very short climb took us to Little Hart Crag and we returned quickly to take the path to Dove Crag. We were making good progress and after a fairly steep climb midway came quickly to the summit of Dove Crag.
We had originally intended to descend to Ambleside over High Pike and Low Pike but now thought about continuing over Fairfield. It looked so close and really good in the snow that we decided to carry on over Fairfield even though it looked as if it might snow. There looked to be steep climb up to Hart Crag but although the path was rocky it seemed quite short to the summit cairn. We carefully picked our way across the boulders on the summit to return to the path leading to Fairfield and climbed up onto the summit plateau. As we approached the summit the snow that we could see falling elsewhere hit us and was quite savage, stinging our faces in the strong wind. It was quite an exciting climax to the day battling against the elements to reach our fifth new summit today. We stayed a while and then made our way to Great Rigg - quite an easy walk. We could now descend to the road by the Swan Hotel but decided to make it seven summits by continuing over Heron Pike and down to Alcock Tarn and so back to the flat. We finished by climbing over the wall immediately behind the flat. All through the day the skies had been fascinating to watch with the sun creating many colours on the clouds as we were on Fairfield and creating rainbows actually within the clouds. Clouds of different colours piled up upon each other or passed below one other and every so often the sun burst through.
It had been quite some day and although we were very tired and leg weary when we reached home we were more thankful we had been out.
Fells - Dove Crag - Fairfield - Hart Crag - Little Hart Crag - Red Screes - Great Rigg - Heron Pike
Thursday 25th December
Laid in a bit and set off about 11 o'clock for High Pike and Low Pike. Immediately outside we bumped into a bloody great train of people coming from the Alcock Tarn path and we hurried to get past them and then met another load coming the other way. We retreated up the fellside a little until it was clear. It was quite warm trudging up the path from Rydal and it seemed to take quite a while. We finally were able to find a place to get down to the beck and then had to find somewhere to cross. The easiest (or rather the driest) place was where the stream split in two and had some large boulders. It was a bit of a struggle to get across without getting wet. From there on it was a straightforward plod up the hillside to the ridge but the effort was rewarded with a view of Coniston where the sun's rays pierced through the clouds and spotlighted various parts of the countryside. We reached the ridge short of the summit and there was a surprisingly rocky climb to the top.
One of the biggest surprises as we reached the top was that all of yesterday's snow had gone from all of the high tops. We stopped for some soup in the shelter of some rocks just below the summit and watched the rays of the sun changing over Windermere and Coniston. The view stretched over to Yorkshire and we could easily make out Ingleborough(?). We retraced our steps down the ridge and made our way to Low Pike watching the sun on the clouds all the way. The summit of Low Pike was quite a nice little climb from the path and after taking a couple of photographs we came down and continued. The path was easy until we came to the rock step which was quite difficult to get down. Very interesting though and it was a pity that the light was failing and it was too dark to get a photograph. Further down the ridge we climbed the wall and made our way down the fell across some private pasture to the path leading up to Rydal Mount. We passed on the way the remains of some dead sheep and collected a horn. The walk back along Nab Scar path seemed quite long and we were surprisingly weary. It was dark once again by the time we got back but then we had set out quite late.
P.S. Saw a bat along the path to Rydal and watched him for some time.
Fells - High Pike - Low Pike
Friday 26th December
A short day for our last day - up to Easdale Tarn and Tarn Crag. There were a lot of people on the Easdale Tarn path and we had to stop to get away from them. Sour Milk Gill looked very impressive from some distance and could be heard clearly about mile away. On close inspection it proved to be very exciting although we only came to the water's edge at the top cascade. We quickly walked from there up to Easdale Tarn which was in a lovely setting - a huge bowl scooped out of the mountains. Tarn Crag, which from most directions seems to blend into the background, stood out proudly above the tarn and the summit was quite close. We struck up the fellside directly from a sheepfold by the tarn and found a path for the final couple of hundred yards. As we reached the summit a rainbow stretched down into Far Easdale but soon disappeared. Across Easdale Tarn the drizzle was caught in the rays of the sun and sparkled as it drifted across. We turned left and made our way along the ridge to the summit where we sat perched way above things and enjoyed a fine view down into the Vale of Grasmere. We sat awhile and then set off for the descent. The ridge was quite easy and ahead of us a stormy grey sky provided a superb background for the sun soaked yellow grass of the fellside. We reached Stythwaite Steps, passing the two boulders mentioned by Wainwright, and made our way back to Grasmere to be back indoors by three o'clock. Quite short day but very enjoyable.
Fells - Tarn Crag