WEST COAST of SCOTLAND
28th August 1976 to 12th September 1976
After many long distance cycle trips in the south of England this was to be our ultimate challenge and a trip to remember above all others. A superb 600 mile cycle ride from John O'Groats in the far north of Scotland right down the west coast finishing in Glasgow and including a crossing to the Isle of Skye
Such a memorable trip deserves more than just words so this trip has a website of its own with all the photographs taken plus maps of the route. To check it out go to the Bikeride site.
Saturday 28th August
Arrived in a very grey and drizzly Scotland on the sleeper and changed for Wick. Not really spectacular scenery on this coast but lots of birds and rabbits to watch. The ride from Wick to John O'Groats was fairly easy but John O'Groats is far from exciting and is very damp and cold. The weather is still very grey so we did not go down to Duncansby Head as planned but just wandered down to the harbour. Hoping for a better day tomorrow.
Day - 17 miles | Total - 17 miles
Sunday 29th August
A cold and grey morning though with better visibility than yesterday. We slept very well and did not wake until quarter to nine. As we had planned to begin cycling earlier we had a bit of a rush start. The Caithness countryside was very flat and principally farmland with cattle and cornfields. Not very exciting scenery but very easy riding. The most noticeable thing was the churches - simple whitewashed buildings but with cemeteries containing the most elaborate and, presumably, expensive gravestones.
Dunnet Head looked good but was a bit far off the main road so we passed on through Thurso and up on to the first moorland - lots of heather and quietness although this was the A836, the main road through the north of Scotland. The going was so easy that by lunchtime we had reached Reay and we stopped for lunch just past Reay as the moorland began again.
Past this short stretch of moorland we came to Melvich and Portskerra where we had planned to camp but it was very early and we pressed on for Bettyhill. At Portskerra we felt, at last, as if we were approaching the Highlands with glimpses of the mountains ahead and wild heather moors around us. The road - still the A836 - was now single track and everywhere was silent save for the birds and bees. The road twisted and dipped and climbed ever through the moors. We saw a Hooded Crow amongst the many other birds including Lapwings on the farmlands and some Curlew.
Past Swordly Burn we stopped by a small loch and rested awhile whilst photographing the scenery and the heather and many other things before the final run down to Bettyhill and the camp site. We ended the day with a short stroll down to Farr Beach.
Day - 51 miles | Total - 68 miles
Monday 30th August
Awoke to the pitter patter of rain on the tent and lay there awhile hoping it would go away. It didn't and, in fact, stayed on and off throughout the morning and early afternoon. During a brief respite we packed up and set off, paying for the night's camp as we departed in the house at the top of the hill.
First thing on today's ride there was a lovely beach just the other side of Bettyhill - Torrisdale Bay. Then some splendid views up the River Naver with grey storm clouds above and beautiful colours and light. The road started to climb once over the bridge and we were up on moorland again before a fine run down to Borgie Bridge and then once more a climb to the moors. At the top here we were rewarded with some fine views of the mountains with the clouds lifting. From here to Tongue seemed but a short distance but took quite a while to cycle.
We sat in Tongue and had tea and the rain came on again. We had stocked up with provisions and so set off quickly before it worsened but we still had a cold, windy, and wet crossing of the Kyle of Tongue. We could see the moorland road stretching and climbing high ahead and, although by no means quick and easy, the ascent was much easier than we had feared. On the way were some fine views of Ben Loyal. We dropped down to Loch Hope with Ben Hope towering above to the south and then climbed once more before arriving at Loch Eriboll with more superb scenery at its southern end.
A head wind made the going tough but it eased off as we turned round the loch and we pressed on although we had already reached the point where we had intended to camp for the night. We followed the road through the heathery, rocky, hillsides, climbing and dipping gently until we reached the sea at a bay overlooking the island of Eilean Hoan. Up a steep hill and eventually to Durness and then down to the Kyle of Durness with huge sand banks in view as the tide was out. There was just a glimpse of Cape Wrath on the far side.
The mountains ahead looked good but we were by now looking for somewhere to camp as we were quite tired. We stopped by the River Dionard among the heather and, although plagued by midges, it was very pleasant. We could hear fish (salmon?) jumping in the river beside us.
The most impressive thing about today was, undoubtedly, the colours of the hills and the mountains. A hundred shades of green, brown and purple and just a beautiful sight.
Day - 51 miles | Total - 119 miles
Tuesday 31st August
A nice morning with the sun shining and just a few clouds. The climb ahead up to 594 feet which looked really bad last night now looked quite acceptable and we set off with fine views of Foinaven ahead and Cranstackie behind with clouds and sunlight above it. By the time we reached the top of the climb a strong wind had blown up which was to increase in strength as the day progressed.
The scenery became wilder as we approached Rhiconich with much grey stone amid green grass but Rhiconich itself seemed quite rural by comparison with the openness of Loch Inchard and the farming communities around. We stocked up with provisions and set off only to be brought to a sudden halt a few hundred yards on by a superb view up Rhiconich River to Arkle. I went down to the river to take some photographs and as I turned there was another fine view in the opposite direction through the arch of the road bridge and out to the loch.
We stopped a little further on to watch some sheep being penned on the hillside across the loch and then set off into really wild country. Grey rock, green grass and grey water surrounded us, a complete contrast to the heather moors of the past few days. There were glimpses of Foinaven and Arkle with steep scree and towering rock thrusting high above. We eventually came upon a loch with a jetty and boats. Checking the map we found it to be Loch Laxford, a sea loch which was quite amazing as the scenery about us gave every indication of being high up in the mountains. What an unbelievable country this is!
Turning at Laxford Bridge we went on for a few miles and then looked back at a perfect mountain behind us, Ben Stack. Three steep sides to give the classic mountain shape. The road dipped and climbed as usual and then we were all of a sudden at Scourie and the camp site right on the coast. A superb situation looking out of Scourie Bay to Handa Island and the Atlantic. It was only 1:45 p.m. when we arrived so we spent the afternoon wandering around the bay and taking some photographs. A fine rain started later on and the grey drizzly clouds closed in. We can only hope and pray for better weather tomorrow.
Day - 20 miles | Total - 139 miles
Wednesday 1st September
Still windy but with sunshine between the clouds. Scourie bay looked completely different. The road from Scourie gave lots of views of the coast and then as we topped a rise Quinag appeared ahead looking magnificent. Almost every time we top a rise or turn a corner there is something new to see - what a superb country.
As the road turned to Duartbeg the stretch ahead was very picturesque and we continued to Duartmore Forest where we stopped to look for deer. There seemed none but then we looked behind and there were three females or young on a rocky part above a small loch. We watched and photographed hoping that the pictures would be alright. Duartmore Forest was quite superb as was the run down to Kylesku Ferry. This was probably the most scenic part so far.
The ferry crossing was good but too short and soon we were turning off on the B road to Lochinver. We stopped to view Quinag and then when we set off downhill Denise hit a patch on loose stones and went flying, badly cutting her arm and suffering other bruises. We stopped and had some tea and food and fixed the bike and soldiered on.
The road was very scenic although the sun had gone by now and there was very grey lighting. The road went up and down and then down 1 in 4 and up 1 in 4 which for the first time we walked. We passed Nedd and finally reached Drumbeg which had seemed ages away. The road was still picturesque and turning a very sharp corner we came upon Clashnessie Bay where the sea really pounded the shore.
The coast around Stoer seemed too commercialised with lots of caravan sites etc. but soon returned to lochs and rocks before the climb past Pollan house situated high and lonely on the hillside. The top of this climb gave yet another breathtaking view, this time of Suilven which was quite staggering. Unfortunately the light was very flat. Down the hill and then off right to Achmelvich and to the camp by the shore. Here we found more Highland hospitality when the site owner told us to forget the payment. As we turn in another windy and rainy night is approaching. Yet again we hope for a better tomorrow.
Day - 20 miles | Total - 139 miles
Thursday 2nd September
A rainy morning and we were rather slow and stiff away but surprisingly made Lochinver in good time. Paid a visit to the District Nurse and Doctor to have Denise's arm checked out before setting off for Inverpolly. The harbour at Lochinver was good and gave some good photographs. At Inverkirkaig we stopped at a really good bookshop miles from anywhere and bought a bird book before entering the Inverpolly Nature Reserve where immediately we noticed a striking change in vegetation. The Reserve is massive and contains many different habitats including lush green valleys - a total contrast to the main countryside. The mountains were tremendous - Suilven, Cul Mor and Stac Polly - but there were some tough hills to ride. We lunched late after passing Ardmair Bay on the way. Ullapool is in a splendid setting and in the evening we watched and photographed seabirds, sunsets and seals.
Day - 38 miles | Total - 213 miles
Friday 3rd September
After last night's splendid sunset we hoped for a better day but awoke to a showery grey day. We had some miles to make up as we had stopped short or where we had planned and luckily found the first few miles not too hard and we reached Corrieshalloch Gorge fairly soon. The gorge was really spectacular and it was a pity that the bridge over the falls was closed for repairs. After some tea we began the dreaded climb to 1109 feet but it turned out to be quite easy if rather long. As we finally reached the top we could see An Teallach ahead wreathed in clouds but it was not until we had well descended that we saw this mountain in all its glory. The wind was blowing strongly against us and made the going really hard - even downhill! The day seemed to get greyer and greyer and with the wind and the long distance we had to travel, the rest of the day seemed to consist of merely 'pressing on' to reach Poolewe.
We finally reached Inverewe at 5.30 pm and looked around the gardens which were quite fascinating, before camping at the National Trust for Scotland site at Poolewe which after the tiny campsites and freedom so far we found diabolical with all its numbered pitches and rules and regulations.
Day - 51 miles | Total - 264 miles
Saturday 4th September
A short day to Taagan. Quite heavy rain fell while we lay awake but it shortly stopped and we were away. Towards the top of the first hill out of Poolewe the rain came on again and continued on and off until we reached Loch Maree. In view of the rain we paid little notice to the scenery although some was quite pleasant.
We stopped for a while in Slatterdale Forest and then the rain stopped and it started to brighten up. Loch Maree looked good in spite of the weather and we watched the clouds swirling around Slioch before reaching the campsite at Taagan which surprisingly was free of charge. We visited the Nature reserve Visitor Centre but decided not to walk the mountain trail in view of the weather and the fact that we were quite tired. We returned to the tent for a rest and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening fighting off the midges.
Day - 24 miles | Total - 288 miles
Sunday 5th September
Awoke at 7 am and rushed off the site virtually screaming because of the midges. We had never seen so many, it was really horrible. Another grey day with few views but because of the early start we hoped to see some deer but no luck. Glen Torridon was good with the clouds forming around Ben Eighe and Liathach but it was rather cold and drizzly. It brightened up a little at Torridon but not much and we headed for Shieldaig up some fairly stiff hills.
Shieldaig lay off the main road and we turned to the village in forlorn hopes of a cup of tea and were pleasantly surprised by the neat little village all in a line along the bay. Just out of Shieldaig the road to Applecross began with a 1 in 6 hill and it stayed in a similar vein throughout. At the beginning of the road we walked more than wee had done on all the days so far put together. The road twisted and turned and on a better day it would have been a really beautiful route. We passed on to the new road which had only been completed earlier this year and after a while had our first glimpse of Skye as the rain fell again.
More glimpses of Skye followed until we could see The Cuillins albeit under heavy cloud with a perfect pyramid of a mountain to their left. Further down the road we though we saw some deer but decided that it was just some old junk left over from the road building. As we got closer however it moved and, sure enough, there were deer - at least three females and one baby. We took several photographs and are praying they will be alright**. After some time we left the deer in peace and looked out to sea and to Skye which stood in grey mist and cloud above a shimmering silver sea. The lighting was spectacular. A few more miles and we were in Applecross which is a very nice place situated on a small bay looking out to Skye. We photographed some cattle on the beach and watched as the tide surrounded them before going on to the camp site for a good rest.
** The lab ruined three rolls of film when we sent them to be developed so we were left with just one photo!
Day - 45 miles | Total - 333 miles
Monday 6th September
A rest day spent in and around Applecross. After we bought our provisions we took a stroll along the coast to Camusteel to take some photographs of the beach and fishing boats before returning along the road. The weather was reasonably good during the day but became much greyer as the evening wore on.
Rest Day
Tuesday 7th September
A rainy night gave way to a grey, wet and rainy morning. We could not even see the hills across the bay let alone Skye. The Bealach Na Ba pass - the highest road in Great Britain - was going to be one of the highlights but turned into a wet dreary climb with no views, just incessant rain and mist. We reached the summit after a walk only at the very top but then discovered that we had to walk down as it was too dangerous to ride - the brakes wouldn't hold in the wet! The descent was really spectacular with hairpin bends beneath a massive rock face - if only the weather had been clear! After the steepest part was behind us we chanced riding and at last the brakes held. Looking back we could see twin waterfalls descending to the valley, a really lovely scene. We continued, cold and wet, around Loch Kishorn and on through a lush green valley before descending to Lochcarron.
Past Lochcarron we joined the main road and followed the railway although there was a 1 in 7 hill to climb quite soon. The road was quite fascinating as huge rock walls towered above on the left with the loch to our right. We passed through an avalanche tunnel and then slightly further saw a spectacular waterfall leaping 50 or so feet to the roadside. On the loch shore were two herons at separate places which flew away as we were considering a photograph.
On now through forestry plantations and then off the main road towards Plockton on a peaceful side road free from the traffic that seemed to be tearing along on the A road. After a wrong turning we found the road to Plockton which is a lovely village in a beautiful setting. The boats set in a small bay with the orange-brown seaweed amid perfectly still water made this a magical sight. On arriving at the camp site we were amazed to see, just across the water, an oil rig platform at Loch Kishorn which we had passed hours earlier on descending from Bealach Na Ba. An evening stroll up to the point above the camp site gave superb views over to Skye across a mirror calm sea.
Day - 38 miles | Total - 371 miles
Wednesday 8th September
Quite a day. After a rainy, windy, night we packed up in the rain and then sheltered on the site as the very heavy rain came down. We eventually had to set off and became soaked quite soon. The rain was so heavy that it was senseless going on so we stopped again under a tree for it to ease off. Once on our way again we were surprised to find we were crossing heather moorland, a complete contrast to the green areas around the coast.
We eventually arrived in Kyle of Lochalsh rather wet and had some tea and toast in a snack bar before setting off for the ferry. The ferry trip did not last long but before we reached Kyleakin the brain was pelting down again so heavily that we stood in a bus shelter for ages. The rain eventually eased and we started, only for the rain to come down even heavier so that we were absolutely soaked by the time we reached the camp site at Breakish. We camped at 2.30 pm and tried to get dried out ending up asleep in our bags with the rain still pelting down. When we awoke at 4.30 pm the rain had stopped, the sun was out and the clouds had gone! Here was a chance to see some scenery at last.
Leaving the tent and gear we sped off for Elgol to view The Cuillins. The road was quite lovely and the first sight of Blaven was spectacular, a superb jagged ridge. The road was tough, much tougher that we had thought, but the scenery made it worthwhile. When we finally reached Elgol the view across the bay was absolutely staggering. Much better than photographs I had seen. It has to be one of the finest views in the whole country. We chatted to two local children on the way back from the beach and then road back to Broadford in the ever increasing darkness until, at Broadford, it was pitch dark. We were able to buy pizza and chips for our supper and then fumbled into the tent in the dark.
The wind had now changed direction and blew and blew all night - a wind similar to that in the Lake District one time that almost blew me off my feet. Impossible to sleep, the tent must surely come down.
Day - 50 miles | Total - 421 miles
Thursday 9th September
Awoke to a howling gale still blowing as strongly as ever and were amazed to find the tent still up. Outside it looked as if a frame tent had blown down in the night and a caravan had been damaged by flying stones. It was freezing packing everything up and we had tea in a tea room next to the site before setting off. Once we had turned towards Armadale on the Sleat Peninsula the wind was virtually behind us and quite soon the skies cleared and the sun shone making it quite a pleasant and easy run to Armadale. We Stopped at Armadale Castle to see the Clan Donald Centre and have tea and then went on, well early, for the four o'clock ferry. At the pier a notice said 'Service Suspended until Weather Moderates' so we spent the rest of the afternoon in the waiting room waiting for a ferry that never turned up. We learned that this was the first day since last winter that the ferry had not run!
It seemed incredible for, although the wind was strong and the waves choppy, we could see Mallaig clearly and the sky and sea were bright blue. After all hope of a ferry was gone we cycled through Ardvasar to find a pitch close to Tormore. The only spot we could find was a bit of a cramped pitch but, thankfully, sheltered from the wind. We can now only go to sleep and hope that the 10 o'clock ferry will be running in the morning.
Day - 18 miles | Total - 439 miles
Friday 10th September
During the night we were visited by a small animal that shuffled round outside and woke us up from time to time. Denise's watch had broken somehow so that by the time we reached the ferry it was about ten minutes to ten. The ferry was running, thankfully, and we boarded for the trip across to Mallaig which seemed nothing like the half an hour it was due to take.
Out of Mallaig there were quite a few hills and somehow we already felt tired. The morning and early afternoon journey was not really very inspiring save for glimpses over to Skye, Eigg and Rhum and it wasn't until we topped the pass between Loch Eilt and Loch Eil that we saw the days' reward - Ben Nevis away in the distance with snow on top. Quite magnificent! This magnificent prospect was destroyed however when we reached the foot of Ben Nevis for there were factories, lorries, dirt and noise - quite the worst scene we had yet encountered. The camp site, luckily, was in Glen Nevis which still remains unspoilt but the view of Ben Nevis from there is nothing compared to the original view we had. We caught the last rays of the sun turning the mountain tops pink before settling down for the night.
Day - 51 miles | Total - 490 miles
Saturday 11th September
Another fairly windy night but we were soon away and into Fort William to stock up for the weekend. The road alongside Loch Linnhe was very busy and not at all pleasant to ride along. But after crossing the bridge at Ballachulish the traffic eased a little although the wind kept up quite strongly.
Once at Glencoe village the scenery changed dramatically and mountains soared up ahead of us. The map showed the pass of Glencoe ascending to 1041 feet which we were fearing a little but, in fact, the climb was remarkably easy and only the very strong wind gave us any problems. The scenery now was magnificent all the way including a superb triple waterfall. We reached the top of the pass quite easily and then there were miles and miles of open moorland surrounded by mountains in the distance. The moor turned out to be Rannoch Moor, 1144 feet above sea level and the road stayed this high for a few miles before a superb descent to Loch Tulla. The wind was now behind us and the going was really easy all the way to Bridge of Orchy which we reached much earlier than expected. We turned off alongside the River Orchy and have managed to find a pitch by the riverside which is quite good although a little sloping. The weather has been good all day with blue skies and only occasional rain but it is now very cold. Altogether, though, a good day with some superb scenery.
Day - 45 miles | Total - 535 miles
Sunday 12th September
As we left the camp we noticed some snow on top of the nearby mountains which must have fallen last night. The road from Bridge of Orchy rose gently once more until reaching 1033 feet at the Perthshire/Argyll border before descending way down to Tyndrum where we were able to get tea. The mountains behind us were surprisingly good. The traffic on the main road was becoming heavier as more and more people headed towards Glasgow. The River Falloch now ran alongside the road and sparkled in the sunlight - it was a fine day with blue skies - until we found the Falls of Falloch in a really beautiful setting. The river continued on its way to Loch Lomond still sparkling. The Loch itself was glimpsed only occasionally through the trees but was deep blue reflecting the sky amid really lush green countryside. Somehow, however, it lacked interest seeming to go on for miles without changing. When we reached Inverbeg we discovered that the next ferry for Rowardennan, across the loch, was in three hours time so we abandoned our plans to ride the quiet roads on the other side and pressed on to Glasgow along the main road and go home tonight rather than camp another night near civilisation. Past Loch Lomond the countryside changed dramatically into industrialised suburbs and continued much the same all of the way into Glasgow.
We arrived in Glasgow quite early and found we had to wait for the train and so spent the last hours of this magnificent trip bored to death in the Buffet!