THE LAKE DISTRICT
12th November 1977 to 18th November 1977
Glorious autumn colours and changeable weather in Lakeland staying in a cottage at Elterwater
Saturday 12th November
Arrived to find floods at Morecambe and, surprisingly, a sprinkling of snow on the high fells. Rained on and off during the night and continued all day including frequent hailstones! Wandered about in Ambleside during the morning and visited Stock Ghyll Force which was superb, the recent rain having created a crashing giant of a waterfall. At 1.45pm we caught the bus to Elterwater and so to the cottage which is very good. Walked almost immediately back into Elterwater and then along to Chapel Stile returning over Great Langdale Beck and up through the Quarries past the cottage on a higher level and then back.
The evening is quiet, pitch black outside save for one or two lights in Elterwater and the occasional car high up on the road over the fells from Grasmere.
Sunday 13th November
A beautiful day. Awoke to warm morning sun bathing the fells opposite and were up and out into the bracing morning air for a walk to Lingmoor Fell. The morning was glorious with the sun picking out the autumn colours and shapes of the fells. Everything seemed alive. Coming out of the woods above the quarry we caught the first sight of the Langdale Pikes in their mantle of snow. Quite beautiful - Pavey Ark massive and black amid the surrounding snow, Harrison Stickle bold and rugged. After a short distanthe path became frozen underfoot and after turning higher a thin covering of frozen snow lay around. Topping a rise brought Wetherlam, Swirl How and Great Carrs into view - a massive mountain ridge highlighted by the sun at just the right angle. Below to the left lay the wooded southern parts of Lakeland around Windermere and Coniston and the hills stretched way over to the Pennines in varying shades of black and grey into the sun. Further on and there came a superb view of Bowfell, Crinkle Crags and Pike O'Blisco, again covered in snow with the sun strengthening outlines and picking out details. The snow lay thicker toward the top of Lingmoor, not enough for total cover but exhilarating nonetheless and at the summit there was a gloriously intimate view across Langdale to the Pikes. The roar of Mill GIll and Dungeon Gill floated across the valley. The descent toward Side Pike was more interesting than the ascent had been - rocky steps and a twisting path over various dips and rises. Turning left before the rocky upthrust of Side Pike brought us to the Blea Tarn road to turn left for Blea Tarn House and then back to cut across fields to Blea Tarn itself. The path along to the Wrynose road was extremely good, contouring around the fellside alongside a beck with tumbling waters and surrounding fells. Unfortunately, by now the sun had gone and the grey clouds robbed us of the morning's sparkling light. On joining the Wrynose road we turned left for Fell Foot and Little Langdale cutting across footpaths to rejoin the road behind the cottage.
Altogether a good day with a superb morning giving views far and wide - from Chapel Stile down below in the valley to far over to Fairfield and Helvellyn, Red Screes and many more. South to Wetherlam, Coniston, Windermere and Morecambe Bay and, of course, the full majesty of Langdale.
Fells - Lingmoor Fell
Monday 14th November
A grey day outside. No chance of Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark and not much encouragement to get up so we stayed later than anticipated. Decided to walk down to Tarn Hows taking in Black Fell and Holme Fell and so set off in the rain. Initially we followed the road out of Elterwater village overlooking a rather full Elterwater and with the glorious autumn colours all around. Just before the path to Black Fell at Park Fell the rain lashed down and cold and wet crept into the backs of legs and tops of boots. Just across the road a bus shelter! We sat inside and drank soup and eat sandwiches as the sheets of rain lashed down outside. On our way once again over the path to Black Fell, so wet underfoot and in places like walking in a stream. On topping a rise we walked into a wind that tried to lift us off our feet - but the view! So many autumn colours - beautiful rich browns, golds, yellows - such richness of autumn colours that surely are seldom seen elsewhere. If only the sun would shine - what photographs!
Away in the distance, the rain had, disappointingly, washed away the snow from the Pikes so they lacked yesterday's magic but still stood bold and majestic above Langdale. On further through mud and water - so much water - until turning aside on to drier ground we reached the top of Black Fell. The wind continued unabated making the last part easy or difficult according to the direction of the path. Despite its low altitude Black Fell commanded a splendid view to the south from Windermere round to Esthwaite Water and Hawkshead and to Coniston and Tarn Hows with, as always, mighty Wetherlam towering over all. Another path channeling water from the tops brought us down to join the path around Tarn Hows with, once again, a richness of colour in the surrounding trees. As we descended it was a surprise to realise how high Tarn Hows is - well up in the fells.
The rain continued but we were not wet although it made stopping unpleasant and so, after asking permission, we sheltered in a barn at Yew Tree House to have some lunch. Holme Fell stood above us but as Sandy had turned her ankle earlier on we decided that it would be better for her to walk around by the road while I went over the top of Holme Fell to meet her at Holme Ground on the far side. The fell was beautiful with golden bracken, golden trees and all around the majesty of autumn and such a variety of landscape. The path was steep and rugged and towards the top hailstones battered down and the wind blew strongly making progress hard. The fell was much harder than its meager height suggested and below the top was as wet as any path we had yet trodden. The top, once reached after the hail and snow had passed over, beheld quite magnificent views. The high fells were once again mantled in fresh snow and the sun shone over Fairfield and his friends. Coniston Water stretched out to the south and Wetherlam reared up to the west. A good summit worth the effort in its ascent.
A quick walk down and a meeting at Holme Ground and we were on our way through the quarrying area around Hedge Close. Charming cottages and a massive open quarry with a waterfall dropping perhaps 200 feet to a pool below, of an overall size that was difficult to grasp. The path brought us out to Little Langdale amid further showers of hail over a swollen River Brathay and up to the church and Post Office. Heading down in the hailstorm we made for home turning off the road to follow the track back to Oak Bank, reached in darkness.
Despite the rain and the hail and wind a very satisfying day - beautiful colours, a good walk, two fells ascended and approximately 11 to 11˝ miles walked. A good day.
Fells - Black Fell - Holme Fell
Tuesday 15th November
A sunny morning but late away. Heading over Silver How to Grasmere today. The Langdale valley looked quite beautiful with the sun coming out on occasions and dappling the valleys and fellsides. Followed the road to Harry Place and turned up the path to Grasmere climbing steeply at first and then levelling out for a fine traverse around the fellside high above Megs Gill. The sun had gone by now, replaced by rain and snow and, once again, strong winds which had followed us all the way.
I wandered on alone visiting various of the many tops of Silver How and then the summit before meeting Sandy near the top of the pass for the descent to Grasmere. On the top the wind had been so strong as to make standing still difficult, but lower down only the rain continued. Almost at valley level the sun once again broke through allowing a quick session of photography before we arrived in Grasmere where the rain came again. We lunched in the Red Lion Hotel and then looked round the shops buying two paintings from the Heaton Cooper studio. It was now late and we followed the road via Red Bank back to Elterwater, almost all the way in the dark. walking in darkness though has a beauty of its own, the stark black trees guarding the fells and the lights of the houses below in the valley. Grey clouds drifted overhead and the silhouettes of the mountains stood all around.
Even at night this place is beautiful.
Fells - Silver How
Wednesday 16th November
Set out in mixed weather for Hawkshead following, at first, the footpath alongside the Brathay at Elterwater. The path deteriorated past Elterwater into a quagmire over fields before finally reaching firm ground alongside Skelwith Force which was quite impressive . At Skelwith Bridge we had a quick look at the showrooms of the Kirkstone Slate Quarry before moving on down country lanes. A footpath to Mireside took us further than anticipated resulting in a scramble over a barbed wire fence and a tumbledown wall with a cut finger for the effort. Having come a different way than planned we decided to stay on the road and passed the Drunken Duck Inn before arriving at Outgate with a few pretty cottages around a green and the Outgate Inn. After a mid morning snack, a footpath took us to Loanthwaite and a country road joining the BG5286 where, in rain and with clouds way down over the fells, we parted company, me heading for Latterbarrow and Sandy for Hawkshead.
The walk to Latterbarrow was quite straightforward with a superb monument and fine valley views from the top but the descent seemed long and arduous and was quite muddy. The sun shone half way down after I had thought the rain would settle in for the week and the day turned really pleasant. Coming out of the trees there was a superb panorama over Coniston Old Man, Wetherlam and right round to Langdale, with Hawkshead and the lowlands nestling beneath. The sun caught Bowfell making a superb picture, as indeed did many other views. Back on the road the sun sought out the roofs and trees around Colthouse with such a beautiful light and shortly I arrived in Hawkshead to meet up again in the café. The sun was still shining so we wandered round and photographed Hawkshead stopping for a chat on the way with an elderly local gentleman. The town, not village, as made clear by the old chap is really quite beautiful with alleyways and passages under and between all the old buildings.
After we finished photographing we toured the shops and surprisingly were able to buy the Wainwright Westmorland map which I didn't think I would get at all. A look round a few more shops then we caught the bus back to Uppergate for a connection to Elterwater, arriving after dark.
We had walked only about 6 miles but it was a good day all round.
Thursday 17th November
Last night a sharp bright quarter moon shone and the man who owns the cottage said that it heralded a fine day. How right he was! The sun shone from just after dawn until dusk. I had planned yo take in Thunacar Knott and possibly Rossett Pike. Due to the toughness of the walk Sandy was to stay at the cottage. I left early and followed footpaths alongside the Great Langdale Beck to the New Hotel at Dungeon Ghyll whence I prepared to tackle the climb alongside Mill Gill to Stickle Tarn. I could not find my stride to start with catching my feet on rocks and stumbling here and there but eventually got the hang of it and proceeded at a reasonable pace. I had decided on a schedule to enable me to judge which summits I could make and despite the exertions arrived at Stickle Tarn with time in hand. At about 1500 feet the first vestiges of snow lay around and by the time the tarn was reached it lay about an inch thick. The sun shone brightly behind me making the view back down Mill Gill to Langdale a sparkling wonderland of snow and splashing water. Mill Gill contains some of the finest waterfalls around. Stickle Tarn was a jewel in the snow covered surroundings with the black face of Pavey Ark towering above and snowy Harrison Stickle to its left. A real mountain tarn in splendid mountain country.
The path around the tarn was shaded from the sun and a chill wind whipped up the snow making it suddenly very cold - a stark contrast to the warn toil up by Mill Gill. Past the tarn and the path up the North Rake of Pavey Ark began - all snow and ice on steep and jumbled rocks! Treading carefully I climbed up and managed quite soon to get the hang of breaking the ice or clearing the snow with each step and so made good steady progress. Two-thirds of the way up, the path steepened and the snow lay deep - so deep in fact that in breaking through the crust I sank to my knees in many places and to six inches above the knee in others. Superb stuff! Wonderful winter mountaineering - kicking steps and climbing one step higher each time. The crisp feel of the snow breaking beneath my tread and the spindrift whipped from the plateau above was exhilarating. All too soon it was done and I emerged at the top to a beautiful white wonderland.
Snow lay in every direction far and wide - on Helvellyn, Fairfield and distant Skiddaw and on the rocks near at hand. The wind had shaped ridges and formed patterns over the plateau stretching from Pavey Ark way over to High Raise. A short rest by the summit of Pavey Ark and then across the virgin snow to Thunacar Knott, again kicking steps on the steeper parts. From Thunacar Knott I trekked over the rocky ridge to Harrison Stickle for a bite to eat sheltered behind a large rock just away from the summit. In the wind it was bitterly cold, freezing my beard and turning the snow on my socks and boots to ice. In the sun it was glorious, the warmth sinking right into the bones. Descending from Harrison Stickle was decidedly hairy - climbing up snow is easy and enjoyable but coming down is another matter. Suffice it to say I made the descent in somewhat ungainly fashion and quickly reached the foot of Pike O'Stickle where I saw the first human footprints of the day and at the summit the first and only person seen all day.
I had been debating whether to include Pike O'Stickle but in view of the amount of snow and ice about decided not and so headed towards the Stake Pass for Rossett Pike. I had picked out a path from afar which, though steep, was a good deal shorter than the way right round the ridge. As I approached closer it looked impossibly steep and I almost regretted the decision. But everywhere looks steep and once on the path the way became obvious and an easy path contoured around Black Crag. Rossett Pike turned out to be one of those fells where the next top seems to be the top but never is. On and on I trekked falling over at one time and coming close to breaking an ankle but finally there it was - the summit cairn. I was way ahead of my schedule but did not linger long as I was already quite weary and so I descended to the Rossett Gill path popping over firstly for a peep at Angle Tarn nestled under Bowfell's mighty flanks. Walking on snow had been easy but here on the path where a good number of feet had compacted the snow to ice the going was extremely difficult. I descended as fast as I dare for the snow on this side of the valley lay down to about 700 feet compared with 1000 feet on the other side and I eventually reached level ground for a long trek to Dungeon Ghyll Old Hotel. I had arrived by 2.38pm which was much faster than I had thought - too late for one bus and too early for the next so I had the long trek down Langdale ahead. I refreshed myself with shandy in the Old Hotel bar - a really good, basic, down-to-earth place - and set off pounding the road willing my tired legs on and on and reached the cottage in under an hour.
A fine day was over - tough certainly but quite exhilarating. A superb walk in beautiful countryside.
Fells - Thunacar Knott - Rossett Pike - Harrison Stickle - Pavey Ark
Friday 18th November
Awoke again to the sun on the trees and on the fells across the valley. Looks like another fine day. Got up late and spent a while fiddling around taking photographs. Tried to capture the birds feeding on the wall opposite but in vain, had to be content with the trees instead - they don't move! By the time we were on our way the sun was blazing down strongly although there was a bite in the air. Photographed the trees, cottages around Elterwater and the Brittania Inn using up the film. No more photographs! We had decided to climb Loughrigg and were heading for Loughrigg Terrace along the minor road to Grasmere. The morning was beautiful - golden autumn leaves and spidery bare branches against a rich blue sky. All the colours were rich and vivid and there were so many wonderful shades. This must be the most colourful time of the year. Summer with its uniform greens pales in comparison to this richness. The birds enjoyed the sun flitting close to hand from tree to tree, the whole morning was fresh and alive.
Loughrigg now rose above us with a steep path climbing above the road but we were to approach from behind as it were and so ambled along Loughrigg Terrace to begin the climb. Grasmere, as ever, nestled below and the view stretched beyond, over Grasmere village and Dunmail Raise and way over to distant snow covered Lonscale Fell. The climb was relatively short and easy and we were soon at the top to be greeted by a fine panorama and a biting wind! Looking right the way round the snow made each fell a little bit more special, each with a kind of magic. How beautiful these fells must look deep in winter. We ate lunch and wandered over to the East summit and then to the South summit gazing down on Loughrigg Tarn before beginning the descent to Skelwith Bridge. There are so many paths over Loughrigg but no difficulty in following the path for Skelwith Bridge and we were shortly down among the fields and walls surrounded once again by all the beauty of the valleys. Walled paths and a short stretch of road brought us to Skelwith Bridge which was surprising for having no shop, very few houses and only the Kirkstone Galleries by way of tourist amenities. We had tea and wandered around the galleries looking at some splendid slate fireplaces and such like before returning to Elterwater. The light was still strong and the colours warm as the sun began its slow descent behind Black Fell. Alongside Elterwater it sparkled through the silhouetted trees and once again, as so many times earlier, I wished that I had more film. We wandered into Elterwater and then on to Chapel Stile when suddenly it began to rain. Totally unexpected - it had been a glorious day and the sun had not yet faded behind Black Fell. Still they say the weather can change so quickly in this corner of England.
That's it then our last day, a fitting end to a fine week. A little wet here and there but it all adds to the experience and the changes in conditions make one appreciate the fells that little bit more.