LAKE DISTRICT
27th January 1979 to 2nd February 1979
A winter week in the Lakes staying at a cottage somewhere(!).
Obviously we went to walk but only managed one fell because of the weather
Saturday 27th January
Set off early as the motorway was closed up to junction 16. Made better progress than we thought up to junction 26 which was closed off. Rejoined at 27 and drove on packed snow and ice and in thick fog for many miles. Just keep the eyes open and pray! Past Kendal there was a complete transformation - roads clear, fog gone, sun shining, trees and fields beautiful in their cloak of snow. Surprisingly there was hardly any snow about compared with home but still the fields looked good. Drove fast on the motorway then into Keswick past magnificent snow-covered Blencathra. Did some shopping and went on to Grasmere, where we ordered some pictures from the studio, and then on to Ambleside for a cagoule and some gloves. Bought two more Wainwright books, one in Keswick and one in Ambleside. Grasmere and Rydal Water were both completely frozen and covered in snow, as was Derwentwater from a quick glimpse - superb! Reached the cottage easily about four o'clock and settled in. Good that we arrived without problems although the absence of snow was a little disappointing.
Sunday 28th January
We must have been tired from yesterday, for we didn't get up until 12 o'clock. That put paid to any long walks, but outside the snow was falling heavily, so even a short walk would be enjoyable. We walked out towards Tarn Hows along the road outside and then by the footpath, then along a road and through the forest. The snow lay deep, the roads were unrecognisable and the walking good, but tiring, with our boots sinking deep at each step. Through the forest and onto open ground just before Tarn Hows, two Robins came begging and followed us for some while. They came within a yard at times. Tarn Hows was unrecognisable from the surrounding hillocks - a white expense of virgin snow, distinguishable from the surrounding countryside only because it was flat. We stopped nearby for coffee, and then followed the road back to Coniston. The road was closed to cars, but not to us or the sheep wandering across now and then. Further on we passed cottages with the smell of woodsmoke - nestled in warm and secure from the falling snow. Small avalanches fell from the trees as we passed by and still the snow did not let up. As we passed the footpath we had taken a few hours earlier our footprints had gone - and it was still snowing! A couple of Land Rovers past us effortlessly - the conditions probably better for driving than they seemed and soon we were back. Lit the fire to dry off and settle down for an evening by the fire and see what tomorrow brings.
Monday 29th January
Drove into Coniston and began a walk which hopefully would take us to Walna Scar. Up behind Coniston on the road to the fells it soon became quite hot and it was obvious how unfit we were. A tiring mile brought us out onto the open fell and we tried to follow an invisible path - the snow blanketed all. We followed sheep trods - compact paths in the snow - but not trusting their ways we turned aside just after Boo Tarn and found we were miles off the path. A turn right and hard pull up brought us back onto the path and to Cove Bridge where we stopped and rested. The snow was over a foot deep and every step was tiring. Shortly beyond the bridge Sandy stopped and I went on. A windbreak built from snow gave Sandy some shelter as I trudged on through the deep snow. This was a steep part of the path and also the deepest snow. At times I was in six inches above the knee making it all but impossible to take another step. I thought about turning back but no - just to the next ridge! The snow eased off in depth and I made the ridge only to find more deep snow and a considerable way still to go. I was decidedly unfit and it would have taken quite a time to reach the top and with Sandy waiting back down the path getting cold it was not worth it. I turned back. After I rejoined Sandy we had some soup and snacks and set off back following our footsteps except where we had gone wrong. The sheep were right after all, uncanny that they can follow a path when none is visible.
The day brightened, the sun crept out in patches and a slight rosy glow spread across the fells. As we made our way back the sheep were scratching for food or licking the prepared food laid down for them by the farmers. The snow had been melting from the trees and was quite wet as we returned. The snow ploughs had been out in Coniston and we made our way home quite easily.
Tuesday 30th January
A beautiful day. Looked out of the cottage window and there was the Old Man of Coniston, magnificent in a new white cloak. Quite majestic! We had to go to Grasmere for the pictures and so decided to spend the day driving round taking photographs if the sun held. After Grasmere and buying a few books in Ambleside we drove down to Langdale to see the snow on the Pikes and then down to Hawkshead, hopefully to visit Hill Top which was unfortunately closed. As we returned to Ambleside the sun was bathing the white fells with pink and so we stopped alongside Rydal Water for some photographs as the evening light spread across the sky. Back to Coniston and more photographs across the water to the Old Man to end the day.
Wednesday 31st January
A day when I was going to go up Coniston Old Man if the weather was fine but looking out of the window early on showed that the mist was down on the mountains so we laid in for a while emerging at noon. We drove off towards Torver searching out the little hills to make an ascent of Beacon Fell. A delightful tarmac drive led from the main road among bracken and juniper until at a sharp bend we turned aside to the fell. An easy going path with a fair amount of snow took us up a couple of rocky outcrops to the summit which appeared quite suddenly. Not the usual trick of appearing to be the top, the cairn was atop the first obvious rise. On the summit the wind was gusting strongly and after only a short sit we made our way south along the ridge and so down to Beacon Tarn - frozen solid and probably possible to walk across. A short climb to a col led us to a valley between the higher ground which then led easily back to the road and the car. Too short a day really, so we drove round to Grizedale four an ascent of Carron Crag with Sandy waiting in the car by the Theatre. The going was quite tough as the snow lay over 12 inches deep making every step a fight - on and on I trudged, extremely hot despite the snow. The trees sheltered the paths from the wind making it unnaturally warm. Across the paths were tracks of deer, sheep and at one stage a badger, making a most interesting walk. Eventually the turn off to the summit appeared and through a dark tunnel of trees the sky could be seen. Emerging at the top was a welcome breather from the forest with a superb view all around the compass. A very fine top indeed.
Because of the snow, except where I could run along where my footsteps already were, the descent was no easier than the ascent and I shortly had to take off the cagoule to breathe. I made progress as fast as the snow would allow but in my eagerness to return I followed some waymarkings in error and so had to retrace my steps and check the route by compass. A good path led down to the start of the descending path and despite a few tumbles the descent was achieved quickly. Back home in the dark to end quite a good day (or rather half day).
Thursday 1st February
Set off alone to climb Caudale Moor and perhaps further. It was raining and not good visibility so Coniston Old Man was given a miss. From Ambleside I decided to take the direct road to the Kirkstone Pass despite the "road closed" sign, as most of the roads seemed to have thawed. Towards the top with the Inn in sight the rain turned to snow and the wheels started to spin so back down it was for the long way round via Troutbeck. At the Inn the snow was blowing across quite strongly as I put on the overtrousers and zipped up against the cold. Off onto the fell past the skiers and into the snow. The snow was deep and the going hard but even so I soon caught up with two chaps ahead and we teamed up for the rest of the walk. They were policemen, one of them the Hawkshead Bobby. We plodded on through snow drifts sinking to our knees and occasionally stumbling and falling. The "easy" climb from the path took it out of me, each step being quite an effort. Eventually, after finding one cairn which was not the top, we reached the topmost cairn and immediately set off down as the windblown snow was stinging across the top. On the way back we could walk on top of the wall as it was level with the surrounding snow. We found a snow bank and dug in for lunch before commencing the long journey down. Near the pass it was quite steep and the snow lay thigh deep making it an easier descent than if it were dry. Back to the Inn for couple of pints of shandy and then down the Ambleside road back to the cottage. A tiring day but a proper summit at last.
Fells - Caudale Moor
Friday 2nd February
A beautiful day so we went in search of photographs. As the fell roads were closed we had to go the long way round via Broughton in Furness to Santon Bridge and Wasdale. Broughton was a surprise - a very nice little town. Wasdale was, as ever, quite stunning with the snow on Great Gable and Scafell. Lots of photographs around Wasdale Head and a short walk up over the Black Sail Pass path. I climbed the shoulder of Kirk Fell (in training shoes) and then slid and stumbled back down again. Going up was easy! A wash in the beck and then back to a craft shop we had passed at Santon Bridge to buy Sandy a stick and me another little Wainwright book. We then drove down Eskdale for a look at Hardknott Pass which would have been impossible to drive. A few more photographs then the long road journey back the way we had come. A fine day, all day, with some good photos to look forward to when we get back.