DEVON and CORNWALL
22nd August 1980 to 30th August 1980
A motor tour around Devon and Cornwall with a two day walk down the coast path thrown in for added interest
Friday 22nd August
Left home at 4:30 p.m. and had a good drive down the M5. Arrived and camped at Priddy at 7 p.m.
Saturday 23rd August
An early start for Cheddar Gorge where we walked down and climbed up a bit. On to Glastonbury which was quite pleasant. Climbed Glastonbury Tor which had a superb 360° view. Took A39 to Bridgwater and drove through the Quantocks. Lunched in Quantock Forest with a good view and heather and broom - purple and yellow - all around. On through Over Stowey, Stogumber, Monksilver and so to Exmoor - disappointing at first but improving vastly on the open moor with acres of purple heather and a good view down to the sea. Then from the moor to Porlock and Porlock Weir, a delightful little harbour with pleasure boats and pleasant houses. Up Porlock Hill which was quite steep and we then went across the moor to South Molton via Exford. Exford was very pretty but Landacre Bridge further on was quite superb. There were fell ponies away on the moor. Into Devon shortly afterwards and so to South Molton where we found the campsite was closed but we camped further on at Romansleigh.
Sunday 24th August
Followed a tour in "Devon and Cornwall " book via Mariansleigh and Bishops Nympton up to the A361 into Bampton, which was not as big as I thought, and then up to Dulverton, across the moors to Tarr Steps. Here there was a fine prehistoric bridge across the River Barle. We then went back onto the moors. Exmoor was very beautiful high up with the heather in bloom. We went into Withypool and along to Simonsbath with some find moorland northward. Down from here towards Lynmouth where we stopped at Watersmeet with a beautiful convergence of two rivers. Next into Lynmouth which was quite superb and where we went up the cliff railway to Lynton. We drove round to the A39 via Lynton Hill and then took minor roads to Hunters Inn, very good but packed with people. Then up to Trentishoe Down for lunch. Here were great views of the cliffs around Elwill Bay. Down to Combe Martin and Ilfracombe on minor roads via Lee to Woolacombe and Croyde where there were lovely thatched cottages. Round to Braunton and Barnstaple and then onto Okehampton.
Monday 25th August
Camped last night for only £1, can't be bad! Drove up to the moor past Okehampton Camp and was surprised to find the road made up to about 1200 feet. Walked up West Hill Tor and onto Yes Tor and High Willhays. Very easy going and good walking, the easiest 2000 feet tops of all! Dartmoor was extremely good, knocking Exmoor way down the table. Strong winds on the tops and quite cold despite being August. Came down early and drove across the moor via an unmade road to Bellever - great! Took minor roads to Chagford, a splendid little village, and on to Postbridge and Princetown. Very popular here so we had lunch a mile or so away from Princetown in the afternoon sun. Then drove on to the moor, all good stuff, to Peter Tavey and Mary Tavey and past the church perched high on the hill at Brent Tor. Down then to Lydford and then across country to Holsworthy and the Cornish coast at Sandy Mouth, just north of Bude. Beautiful to be along the coast again with magic views from the cliff tops. Camped at a caravan site near Sandy Mouth.
Tuesday 26th August
Free camping last night! Drove round minor roads via Coombe Valley, Morwenstow and onto Hartland and Hartland Point. The Point good though not as spectacular as imagined. On next to Clovelly, superb! We approached through Hobby Drive, a three-mile meander through woods with glimpses of Clovelly and the sea. Next went on to Westward Ho! Quite pleasant but didn't stay and then through Monkleigh to Frithelstock for lunch by the church. Next to Torrington for a tour round Dartington Glass, magnificent! It took up a fair amount of time so we had a quick dash to Tintagel - quite a long drive - and arrived in time to organise tomorrow.
Wednesday 27th August
We left the car at Tintagel and took a taxi to Bude (£7) to begin a two-day walk down the coast. The first stretch from Bude to Widemouth Bay was quite easy and pleasant walking. We made good time and arrived at Widemouth Bay quite early. From here onwards the going was harder with many more ups and downs, the first being the sharp descent to Millook Haven. Many more ups and downs but all the while the beautiful scenery and especially the heather and gorse - at times whole hillsides with purple in every shade interspersed with yellow- magnificent! We were intending to camp wild at Crackington Haven but as we approached we could see a campsite right beside the path - quite welcome. A little tired we settled down for the night.
Thursday 28th August
The second part of the walk and by far the toughest. Reasonable going out of Crackington Haven with one steep section at the head of the bay and an immediate descent again followed by a tough climb up. Ahead, High Cliff lay sheathed in mist and proved to be a hard climb with the path dropping and climbing. The top was a disappointment, no cairn or trig point, just an open field. No views either due to the mist. A steep descent, after we had lost the path higher up, took us to the climb up Rusey Cliff with again heather and gorse in beautiful profusion. After Rusey Cliff we had left the mist behind and could see the way both ahead and back along this wild and rugged stretch. The usual dips and climbs took us to Pentargon waterfall - a superb part of the coast with sheer cliffs to the sea and the path perilously close to the edge. Shortly after we came to Boscastle where Sandy caught a bus back to Tintagel and I carried on round the coast. The weather became hot and sticky with occasional showers making the going hard although the gradients were not as steep as earlier. A sharp drop to Rocky Valley, a quite magnificent stream through a rocky gorge, and a steep climb out and a little further on a drop down to Bossiney Haven took me around to Tintagel - journey's end. Quite a tough couple of days but with some great views of cliffs, sea, flowers and butterflies.
Friday 29th August
A lousy morning, grey, misty and wet, it drizzled on and off throughout the day until early evening. We drove round the coast stopping off at various points but not for long as the weather was rather miserable. Visited first Port Isaac and drove through its narrow streets then on to Port Quinn for a brief look over the beautiful little inlet. Next Polzeath where the waves were crashing onto the beach and the surfers were out in the pouring rain! Quite a sight, the first real waves we had seen. Through Rock and Wadebridge to Padstow and a walk round the harbour and shops. From Padstow we drove along the B road to visit the Bedruthan Steps catching on the way a fleeting glimpse of beautiful Porthcothan. The Bedruthan Steps were quite magnificent despite the gloomy weather. Quickly on to Newquay and on to Perranporth and then up to Reskajeage Downs via Portreath to stop for lunch. Next stop St. Ives where we had to park outside and walk in but where we had a long look round and had our first glimpse of the sun. Then headed towards Lands End through Pendeen in ever improving weather. The drive across the moorland with glimpses down to the sea was quite delightful. We turned down to Pendeen lighthouse and sat for half an hour or so watching the white waves crash against the rocks in the evening sun. Beautiful colours, blue water, white waves and the best light in which to see Cornwall. A short while later we were camped at Pendeen, a little later than normal.
Saturday 30th August
Firstly down to Lands End reasonably early to look round but we stopped at Sennen Cove to watch the waves pound over the breakwater - quite a sight. We didn't stop long at Lands End before making our way to Penzance, stopping en route to look at a neolithic barrow and a standing stone circle. Penzance was reasonably pleasant and we next drove to the Cactus Nursery at Rosudgeon with a fine view of St Michael's Mount on the way. The nursery was nothing special, although we picked up two plants, and we then made their way to the Lizard. We lunched at Lizard Point and then went to the lighthouse - fascinating - before walking down to the most southerly point. Next stop was Morwenna Gardens Cactus Nursery, a total disappointment and we came away quickly. The rest of the day was spent on the long drive over to Polperro. Polperro itself was a little disappointing although quite pretty. It seemed to lack the magic of the North Coast villages. We are camped a few miles from Polperro ready for tomorrow's drive home.