Market Harborough
3rd January to 10th January 2004
Les, Sandy, Sean and Pauline
A winter week from Blue Lias marina to the Market Harborough arm returning along the same route. A rather wet and windy week but despite being winter we had to continually open the doors and windows due to the heat pumped out by the stove!
This trip report, with photographs, can also be seen at www.canaltravels.co.uk
Saturday 3rd January
Blue Lias to Lower Shuckburgh
Arrived at Blue Lias at 1.30pm after having had to go back home to collect forgotten things and stopping at Tesco's in Rugby. No boat! Walked up and down cut before finding someone (from Ownerships?) who advised that Slipstream had been sent up to Calcutt Boats for pump-out and diesel since Stockton Top Marina was closed! Finally set off at 2.20pm for the short run down to Napton Junction and on to Lower Shuckburgh. Weather overcast and fairly cold. First locks at Calcutt were wide hydraulic. Calcutt Boats is strangely situated between the top and middle locks. Saw no boats along the section to Napton and didn't expect to see any but passed two on the Oxford/Grand Union section just before Lower Shuckborough. Planned to moor by Bridge 105 but the banks were too reedy so pressed on almost to Bridge 104 where we moored just before dark as close to the bank as we could manage.
Miles 4.9 - Locks 3 - Hours 2:08
Sunday 4th January
Lower Shuckborough to Crick Wharf
Set off just after 8.00am to discover that had we gone on a further hundred yards last night we could have had a much better mooring with piling. Weather grey and overcast but not too chilly for most of the day. Couldn't remember much of the Oxford section even though we had been along there before until we reached Braunston. Turned to creep slowly by the moored boats (inc. Ivor Bachelor's coal boat) but couldn't see much as Sandy had put a log on the fire and smoke was billowing out.
Just past bridge 1 at Braunston a voice from a moored boat enquired if we were going up the locks and asked us to wait 10 minutes so they could join us through. The boat yard below the bottom lock made access quite tricky and we had to go right up to the lock only for the escaping water to push us away. Good progress with two crews working the locks and we went ahead at the top while the other boat pulled over to finish their breakfast. Through Braunston Tunnel - long and quite wiggly - to emerge into daylight 20 minutes later. Approaching Norton Junction there was a fishing match with hundreds upon hundreds of fishermen - never seen so many. Turned at Norton Junction where we had planned to have lunch and get water but it was only 11:14. Started taking on water but decided to carry on to the bottom of Watford Locks for lunch and water there. Passed The Stags Head where we had planned to eat on the way back to find it was now an 'authentic Thai restaurant' so plans will have to be changed on the return trip. Past the back of Watford Gap services and on to Watford Locks to discover the water point seemed to have been engulfed by towpath works so decided to go through the locks and eat and water above. After not having seen any boats we followed one up the flight while another was coming down and yet another was behind us! Very interesting up the staircase with a very tight turn to get into it. Once we figured out how the paddles worked it was easy going to the top.
Pulled over for lunch and water and saw the boat ahead of us pulling yards of black tarpaulin from their prop. They had to call the BW man out to get the rest of it off and they were still there when we left. They finally passed us in the pitch dark at Crick! Crick Tunnel soon came into sight and a slightly shorter but much wetter journey saw us arrive at Crick Wharf where we moored just past Bridge 12. Walked into Crick for shopping at the Co-op.
Miles 12.5 - Locks 13 - Hours 07:20
Monday 5th January
Crick Wharf to Husbands Bosworth
Weather much the same - cold, grey and overcast. Canal very rural now and fairly uneventful. Turned up Welford Arm which was a pleasant excursion and made good time. Our first (and only) lock was quite small and just above the hitherto deserted arm came alive with boats moored all the way to the terminus. Carried on past the marina (where many people turn) to the official turning point at the end. Very little room to turn but mad a perfect turn not touching the bank or any of the moored boats to reverse into the double mooring spot at the end of the arm beside the BW dredger. Busy at the BW offices. We had planned to have lunch at the Wharf Inn but found that they did not do food on Mondays so it was back to the boat to bake some rolls for lunch. Pulled the boat forward a bit and took on water while we ate our lunch.
Back down the arm counting the boats named after Lord of the Rings - there was Galadriel and we had earlier seen Sam Gamgee while the boat that went through Watford Locks and ahead of us was Lothlorien. Uneventful trip back down the arm with glimpses of the infant River Avon. Hard to believe this was the same river that flows through Stratford. Turned back onto the main line and came soon to Husbands Bosworth Tunnel which looked longer that it was as we couldn't see the end of the tunnel which kinks slightly. Moored just past bridge 46 but couldn't get close to the bank which made getting on and off a tad difficult. Walked into Husbands Bosworth looking for food but found only a crap Post Office and one other shop. It didn't look much outside but had a good selection of unusual food and drink inside so we were okay.
Miles 16.1 - Locks 2 - Hours 05:42
Tuesday 6th January
Husbands Bosworth to Market Harborough
Rained heavily in the night and still raining as we set off. A heavy drizzle which got heavier and turned into lashing rain at one point. Crew stayed inside all morning until forced out by having to attend to Foxton Locks. Strong wind at the top lock made manoeuvring difficult particularly with a boat moored right next to the lock and a BW tug on the other side. Why do BW always moor their craft where they ask other boaters not to? Foxton was a delight holding no fears after we had earlier figured out Watford Locks and we were down entire flight in 50 minutes which put us well ahead of schedule. Noticed a shop at the bottom of the flight and made a mental note to call in on the way back. Only slight problem was getting out of the bottom lock where a boat moored by Foxton Boat Services had its bow half way across the exit to the lock! Had no choice but to nudge it out of the way.
The rain had stopped midway down Foxton Locks and by the time we got halfway down the second staircase there was not a cloud in the sky. A total transformation! Pleasant trip up the Market Harborough Arm stopping for the BW key operated swing bridge and then passing into open countryside past the bone factory. The channel was narrow and fringed by reeds and looked quite different to the main line. Goods views over the surrounding countryside beyond the A6. The canal twisted and turned and although the sun was shining brightly the wind had picked up and it became quite chilly. From the map it looked like the approach to Market Harborough might be a bit industrial but the canal saunters past the enormous back gardens of huge bungalows and houses and wends a very pleasant way into the outskirts of Market Harborough. The basin at the end was smaller than expected and almost completely overrun by Canaltime boats including two wide beam Dutch barges which could be the ultimate nightmare if met on the cut but they are almost certainly only used as floating hotels.
Visitor moorings very good with water points all along and we tied up before 1 o'clock for a restful afternoon and a stroll into Market Harborough for shopping. We had not passed another moving boat all day!
Miles 11.3 - Locks 10 - Hours 05:26
Wednesday 7th January
Market Harborough to North Kilworth
Forgot to move boat last night the few yards to the water point so got up a bit earlier to take on water. Very mild as we set off but within half an hour it had become quite chilly with the wind blowing strongly. The return trip seemed quicker than yesterday and we were soon back at the swing bridge which was dealt with more quickly than yesterday. Not long before the junction (passing Lord of the Rings) where we stopped to visit the shop for plaques and guides. Getting into the bottom lock looked tricky with the boat from yesterday still across the lock entrance and a trip boat moored right before the lock. Managed to get in with inches to spare. The journey up the flight was smooth and trouble free and we were surprised to find at the top that we had come up even quicker than yesterday's descent!
We had planned lunch at the top of the flight but we were well ahead of schedule so carried on to Bridge 52 where we moored at midday in very pleasant surroundings. As we sat quietly eating lunch the clouds disappeared and the sun came out again. Thus the afternoon started pleasantly but the fine weather didn't last as long as yesterday. Still a pleasant run up to Husbands Bosworth tunnel and on through to North Kilworth. The guide shows mooring between Bridge 45 and North Kilworth boat yard but there is none so we pressed on to Bridge 43 where we moored by the piling. In the middle of nowhere and the wind picking up. Could be a rough night!
Miles 12.8 - Locks 10 - Hours 06:56
Thursday 8th January
North Kilworth to Norton Junction
On the way to Market Harborough we did not take any photographs as it was too dull and overcast but any hopes of taking any on the way back were dashed today. It rained much of the night with strong winds and the rain was still pounding on the roof as we awoke at 7:30am. We decided to have a lie in and see if the rain would ease off and by 8:30am it had stopped, so we got up and set off at 9:00am. Within minutes the rain was lashing down and the morning became one of those where the only objective was to reach the next stop as soon as possible. The rain was almost horizontal and stung my face as we ploughed on. No point in trying to watch the passing countryside, it was hard enough just to see where to point the boat. At one point we passed a couple of boats moored just before a bridge and slowed down to pass then only to be blown completely sideways so that the bow hit the bank just before the bridge as the stern hit one of the moored boats.
After a couple of hours the rain did ease off and the sun came out but it lasted only a short while before the rain came down again. It became a battle of endurance to reach our lunchtime stop at Crick Wharf but finally we arrived and had a welcome rest by the stove with some hot soup. As we enjoyed lunch the skies cleared and we enjoyed some welcome sunshine for almost an hour.Of course by the time we had to start off again the skies had clouded over and the rain lashed down again. Crick tunnel provided some respite from the rain but was almost as damp inside with water constantly dripping from the roof. As we exited the tunnel a curtain of water showered down. The rain eased for a while but soon returned as we approached Watford Locks and the crew had to venture out from the warmth of the boat to work the locks. Shame!
Watford Locks proved something of an adventure. Contractors had a temporary bridge over the top lock and it was impossible to walk along the towpath to the lock. We took the boat over to the far side and dropprd off the crew whereupon the wind promptly blew the bows back to the towpath side. After much manoeuvring the boat was secured back on the towpath side. We had not seen any boats moving all day but, of course, the only boat we were to meet all day had to be coming up the staircase! Moving from the top lock to the staircase proved difficult with the wind making the turn almost impossible but once in the staircase conditions eased although Sandy and Sean working the locks were getting soaked. Below the staircase we had to wait a short while as the contractors removed a temporary bridge. We finally exited the bottom lock to find a BW tug double breasted right outside the lock making it totally impossible to pass without hitting it at the stern as nudging our way past. Another example of BW flouting their own rules.
Despite the conditions we had made good time and arrived early at our intended stop at the Stags Head but, as had been noted on the way up, a Thai restaurant was not for us so we pressed on to Norton Junction and reversed toward Buckby Locks. A huge floating pontoon taking a good four-fifths of the canal put paid to further reversing so we moored close to the junction. A quick recce to the New Inn looked promising but it was decided to eat on board. Of course the rain had stopped by now, the wind died down and we enjoyed a pleasant starlit evening.
Altogether a day for the (fool)hardy. Not exactly pleasant but another boating experience. If we did not have to be back at base by an appointed time it is doubtful if we would have moved at all today. Oh, what must be the joys of having one's own boat!
Miles 16.3 - Locks 7 - Hours 06:36
Friday 9th January
Norton Junction to Calcutt
A gray and overcast start but no rain although probably the most chilly morning so far. Good progress along the section occupied by hundreds of fishermen on the outward journey and a fairly quick arrival at Braunston Tunnel. The return journey quickly confirmed that the impressions of a wiggly, snaky, passage on the outward trip were in fact the reality and not just a lack of practice in steering. Three quarters of the way through I was just thinking how lucky we had been not to have met a boat coming the other way in any of the tunnels when a bright light appeared in the distant tunnel exit as a boat entered. The huge tunnel light of the oncoming boat made it seem a certainty that we would not pass unscathed although, at last, it swept by to reveal a miniature BW tug!
The exit of the tunnel grew and grew until we finally came once again into daylight and ... pouring rain! Waterproofs quickly donned we went on to Braunston Top Lock where the pounds were so full that water cascaded over the gates. As we went into the second lock we noticed a boat behind going into the top lock so waited for them to catch up so we could share the rest of the locks. Disappointed not to receive a word of thanks from the skipper or crew of the other boat and we descended the other locks with only a few words exchanged. The exit from the bottom lock was extremely tight with boats moored both sides two abreast but there was just room to get through though little space to moor until just after the marina entrance. The crew were left to explore the shop at Lock 1 while I found a mooring spot a little further on.
An early lunch involved a walk around Braunston Marina and the purchase of a couple of long ropes for the boat from Tradline Fenders - a superb shop well worth a visit. A notice on the canalside showed that the fish and ship shop in Braunston was open Friday lunchtime so we decided that would be our lunch. A stroll up the hill and around the village ended in the discovery that the folks who owned the chippy were on holiday so it was back to the boat to rustle up whatever food we had left on board for lunch on the go. A quick stop alongside Ivor Batchelor's boat for some logs and a reverse back up the junction to the BW rubbish point and we were finally back on the Oxford/Grand Union. The weather turned quite bitter along this stretch with strong winds and a shower of rain but we made good progress to Napton Junction by which time the clouds had parted to reveal clear skies and the promise of a fine sunset.
At Calcutt Locks we came across more boats on the move than we had encountered for many a day with two boats coming up and another behind us. Stopped for diesel at Calcutt Boats which involved a reverse between the locks made difficult by the wind but achieved without mishap. Only £20 for diesel this time as opposed to our usual £30 plus! Dropped down the remaining two locks to moor just beyond.
A pleasant day and a quiet evening with no wind and no rain.
Miles 30.2 - Locks 14 - Hours 12:24
Saturday 10th January
Calcutt to Stockton Top Marina
The uneventful last couple of miles return to base.